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Old 15-04-2019, 12:14 PM   #46
pipsovich
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I have also got minisport's yellow band mc, with their 4-pot brakes, and drums in the rear. I have drum brake pedal.
My brakes were not hard at all to bleed
Do you have a reducer for the rears?
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Old 16-04-2019, 03:07 PM   #47
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Yep modified mini, the one everyone has



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Old 12-05-2019, 11:49 AM   #48
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Had a bleeding session today, no luck

Put in a blind pipe in place of the front circuit = pedal rock solid

Tried bleeding with an eezibleed, disconnect the calipers and put a piece of Wood abit thinner Than the disk, went on bleeding and tilted the calipers at the same time, also hammered them with a piece of wood to get some vibrations

The pedal is exactly the same as before, goes to the floor when pressing hard, it brakes but not sharp

I have a rebuild kit, is there any chance the master is defunct regardless of solid pedal when blanked off


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Old 12-05-2019, 11:53 AM   #49
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Actually thinking of remove the pedal and adjusting the leverage

Trackday on Wednesday, must get this junk braking


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Old 12-05-2019, 12:01 PM   #50
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Do you have a brake bias valve?
Is it wide open when your bleeding?


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Old 12-05-2019, 12:07 PM   #51
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:11 PM   #52
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Yep, wide open

Can it be the rear line when it’s solid blanked off

Shall I try blank rear line off too and see what happens? It’s the same as my previous setup with s brakes, there I did go down in master cylinder size to get a good pedal, was rock solid with std bean can, ended up with 6.25 wilwood (single line system) to get some force and leverage


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Old 12-05-2019, 12:47 PM   #53
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I know this sounds like a stab in the dark but could it be that the master cylinder isn't moving enough fluid to move all 8 pistons in the front and the rear slaves at the same time? Marcus say's he's blanked the front's off and get a solid pedal, if he does the same and blanks off the rears and has travel in the pedal then it could be that when he lifts off the pedal the seals on the 4 pots pull the pistons back that little bit to release the brakes and it's the slight gap that they create so they don't bind is causing the excesive pedal travel? I know he's using a yellow tag master cylinder but what if he was to go sihgle line master and go up to say a 0.7 or a 0.725 this would move more fluid for less movement of the pedal, inturn this would put more fluid into the 4 pots and not give as much pedal travel, if you see where I'm coming from?
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Old 12-05-2019, 01:01 PM   #54
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Good point but there is other people using it with good effect, I will get back to single line after mot (or chuck in my floor mounted kit)

I have ripped off the master now and the primary circuit plopped out easily but the other one is stuck inside the hole, I tried compressed air but it just blow through

Is there a trick to get it out?


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Old 12-05-2019, 01:04 PM   #55
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It has not been stated, but we are all assuming that the front and rear hoses are steel braided and in good shape. If not, there will be a spongy pedal.

Going to a larger bore master cylinder will move more fluid, but at lower pressure than required for disc brake
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Old 12-05-2019, 01:10 PM   #56
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Yep steel braded lines, copper everything else


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Old 12-05-2019, 07:26 PM   #57
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Rebuild the master and moved the rear brake bias to the engine compartment, brakes exactly as they were before I started, spongy

Must be to small for my pedal, brake setup

What next? Must have 2 line system for mot, and don’t think there is any std options left

Could try disk brake pedal as a last resort, but I suspect the pedal will be long still

What do you guys think of reversing the outlets?
Thinking bigger bore for the front will move more fluid and the brake bias cater for the rears? Or will the rears starting to brake before the fronts?

Hate brakes


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Old 12-05-2019, 08:26 PM   #58
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Stupid question time...
Have you tested them on a drive out or just going on 'feeling' at the moment?
They might feel soft in the workshop but bite harder than Jaws on the road.
Only asking as the car we built for the track had a spongy feel and the fronts were not working right so it locked up under breaking at the back.
After bedding the brakes in round a couple of laps, the fronts cleaned up nicely and all worked fantastically. The pedal still has a spongy feel to it but it'll stop on a dime...

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Old 12-05-2019, 09:24 PM   #59
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Haven’t driven it this time, will take it for a spin tomorrow even if it brakes fairly god I need to sort it for mot

Normal road driving is ok, but when you push it and coming down from high speed they feel unresponsive and lacks bite.

Looking at pricy pedals and seeing the kad dual cylinder bracket, maybe that will be a better setup for me? I have cylinders and reservoirs already and only need the £200 ish bracket .

nice to be able of finetuning with different masters




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Old 13-05-2019, 07:55 AM   #60
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I had all of the same issues you have encountered. All I can say is that the Yellow tag master cylinder isn't that brilliant really. If you have problems, just get a brand new one. Rebuild kits rarely work and if they do, it wont be for long. Yellow tag and black tag were the least successful master cylinders. Normal bean can single line circuit or green tag servo horizontal masters seem much better.

I still feel that my brakes should be stronger ( using yellow tag) with KAD brakes up front, but that I think is down to my pedal ratio.
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