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Old 07-04-2019, 09:16 PM   #1
Benjamin.foley
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Default Coilover set up

Hi people, just a quick one has anyone got any pictures of there coilover set up on a metro subframe.

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Old 08-04-2019, 08:14 PM   #2
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This could open a can of worms! as the coilovers that will fit a mini set up won't fit a Rover metro subframe (here we go! yes it will!!!) I bought (secondhand) a full coilover set up for a mini. Due to the side plate's that are used to locate & secure the subframe and suspension springs in position (on mine) have the top shocker bolting/locating point welded to the side plate. I had to remove the side plate to be able to fit the coilover top mount to the filtch/cross member like the original shocker is bolted, due to the subframe being from a metro or mgf the top arm is slightly further forward than what it is on a mini & when I fitted the top mount and the then coilover it is leaning backwards & I couldn't get the bolts to go through with out deforming the bushes a lot (not ideal) The solution for me if I wanted to run the coilovers would be to make a new pair of side plates & make the mounting for the top of the coilover in the correct position further towards the front so that it wasn't leaning. Sorry for the ramble!

You can see here where (my) top of the shocker mounts to the side plate.

Radiator by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Last edited by gadget555; 08-04-2019 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 09-04-2019, 02:13 PM   #3
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Keith, yours is not a coil over setup.

The only one I know of that's done like that is Wade's in the Honda section. He has the earlier frame than Keith's which does use coil overs.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=23543
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Old 09-04-2019, 02:45 PM   #4
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As a matter of interest, I see you have your damper mounted to the front of the top wishbone, I'm really only just in the process of working my installation out but My coilover unit sits best with it to the rear of the wishbone. Is it possible if you tried yours the other way, it might have lined up with the original plate?




Last edited by Coaster; 09-04-2019 at 02:51 PM. Reason: added images
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Old 09-04-2019, 03:42 PM   #5
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No, you need to do it like this, for three reasons:-
1) By making a bracket like this, which mounts over the ball joint and uses the old damper mounts too, you considerably reduce the load on the top arm (which wasn't designed to take this kind of loading)
2) Getting the bottom shock mount as near as possible to the hub allows the coilover to be mounted with some 'negative camber'. If the coilover is too upright, it struggles to recover from full bump - the bottom mount actually moves inwards rather than upwards as the wheel moves up.
3) Having the bottom mount sitting above the top arm rather than alongside it, means that you can get the bottm mount nearer to the hub, as the wheel pivots (more or less) around the top ball joint from lock-to-lock

My experience was that, even with a 600lb spring, the car would pump down over a series of bumps, and stay there. In addition to this obvious flaw, great strain was put on the coilover mounting bushes too.

You'll need to do some careful set-up in order to get this bracket right, checking wheel clearance in all instances of lock-to-lock, and from full bump to full droop
When I moved my bottom mount outwards, I went from a 600lb spring that couldn't cope, to a 400lb spring, with some preload, the correct 40% sag at ride height and a comfy ride

999917NewShockMounts - Copy by Kevin SCOTT, on Flickr

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Old 10-04-2019, 06:17 AM   #6
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Very interesting🤔 is that a metro or MGF top arm and do you have any more pictures of the bracket, it looks to be welded?

Thinking about the pumping up issue, I would have thought that would be a ramping issue rather than coil over angle, do your units allow for bump and rebound adjustment?
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Old 10-04-2019, 10:43 AM   #7
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Rover 100 / MGF arms. Yes, the bracket is three pieces welded together.
The issue is that the bottom of the coilover had to move sideways to recover from full bump. No amount of spring strength will be able to do that.
This issue is due to the very short top arm, and where the bottom coilover mount was in relation to the pivot point of the arm.
I solved all the issues by moving the bottom shock mount as near as possible to the hub - this was only a matter of 1.5".
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Old 10-04-2019, 01:09 PM   #8
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Thanks, my setup does have a slight inward lean to the coilover but only about 5 degrees or thereabouts. If that isn't enough I COULD do as you have done but I'd need to keep the lower mounting point very close to the same height due to the length of my units. I daresay there is scope to make the brackets with a lower profile?
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Old 10-04-2019, 02:37 PM   #9
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Not really. There's only about 10mm clearance at the bottom with mine
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:04 PM   #10
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Can I ask why you aren't going with the more usual inboard coil spring and separate damper set up that most of us use with the Rover Metro/MGF frame ?
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Old 10-04-2019, 05:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz View Post
Can I ask why you aren't going with the more usual inboard coil spring and separate damper set up that most of us use with the Rover Metro/MGF frame ?
Not sure who you are asking Oz but I went with coilovers thinking it would give me more spring options rather than being stuck with the Watsons springs, its an MGTF frame so need the tops cutting off the towers to clear the dross beam and I already had the coilovers anyway. It would have been less complicated though tbh

Last edited by Coaster; 10-04-2019 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 10-04-2019, 06:18 PM   #12
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If it's me Oz, then I had no choice. The SAE frame can only be used with coilovers. The towers where the donuts normally sit have been shaved in half and plated over.
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Old 11-04-2019, 07:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fynnbar View Post
If it's me Oz, then I had no choice. The SAE frame can only be used with coilovers. The towers where the donuts normally sit have been shaved in half and plated over.
Sorry Fynnbar, no I was directing the question to Coaster but I didn't make it clear.
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