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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,011
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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I have moved the tie bar mounts outward and downwards approx 20-25mm in both directions which has allowed me to also keep the standard oil filter housing ect, the tyres don't rub the tie bars. Also handling seems un-effected (after castor is corrected to standard).
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my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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How is your bottom arm bush wear, or are you running rose joints?
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,011
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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standard (genuine rover) rubber bushes all round, been on there 3 years and are still good.
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my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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That's good to know, thanks.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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My alternator has arrived too - Lightweight 50A unit from Brise - only 100mm external diameter.
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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Plenty of progress since my last post, I've just been rubbish at updating the thread!
First bit of subframe ![]() Tacking together ![]() Working out suspension arm angles and mounts ![]() Basic frame roughly built ![]() ![]() We've tried to keep original parts as much as possible, even it if means heavily cutting and welding them! ![]() Plenty of welding! ![]() .......and rust repairs! ![]() Almost finished (Drivers side frame has since been modified for damper clearance) ![]() This weekends job - engine steadies ![]() Another steady mount on the cross brace ![]() Whilst my brother works on the exhaust manifold ![]() time for a beer....... Last edited by ZA-J; 15-10-2017 at 08:13 PM. |
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Forgot a few:
Bottom arm mounts ![]() ![]() Slight bulkhead mod for inlet plenum ![]() ![]() |
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 523
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Cracking on! Exhaust manifold is looking good and the engine mounts are great - I'm going to try something similar on the gearbox side on mine. Have a few questions you have probably got it covered, but I'll pipe up whilst you're still in fabrication stage. Why did you decide to use captive nuts on the bottom arm mounts? And have you got room to put the bolts in from the back when the frame is on the car? I think it's pretty tight and would be a shame to make bottom arm bush replacement a subframe out job. Also have you put the hubs on to check you have enough suspension travel. If you fit top & bottom arms and connect the hubs I think you may find the bottom arms hit the frame before the top arm hits the droop stops. You may be ok, but I spotted this problem on mine whilst mocking up.
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 523
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Scratch the bit about no room for bottom arm bolts, I was thinking of top arms
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Bottom arm bolts aren't captive nuts - its a nut welded on the end of the original pin. Nut is there to aid removal and installation and tightening it up.
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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More up to date overall view of the subframe......drivers side frame rail has a shallower angle to allow damper removal and installation
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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Good shout, Will have to take a closer look....thanks!
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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And a little side project, turning the smashed up gearbox that started this project into a coffee table!
Starting point ![]() Gears out, case ready for machining ![]() Brother machined down the casing flat.....off to the blasters next ![]() |
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 133
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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We're playing clutches tonight. I've opted for cable clutch to gain most space in the engine bay for rad, but am struggling to work out how much throw the hook on the clutch pedal needs. I've read somewhere that the throw needs to be 60mm, but for that to be the case with the mini pedal, the hook needs to be about 95mm away from the pivot point.
Is 60mm optimum throw measurement? |
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#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire
Posts: 2,945
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en. Last edited by AGoaty; 18-10-2017 at 01:57 AM. |
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