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Old 15-11-2017, 07:54 PM   #16
keitht
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So these were delivered during the week, I decided to go with these instead of the machined version as they are half the price at £40 and I could just make the machined ones instead of paying £90. Some things I have noticed with these is that they are a sealed unit so don't required a grease nipple and don't need to be shimmed which I find a pain in the peach. It will be a week or so before I get these fitted due to other project work. Any questions fire away.







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Old 15-11-2017, 08:22 PM   #17
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Interesting, thanks for posting the pic. What is the bit pictured at the bottom for?

If it’s a sealed unit, I wonder if it’s based on the metro balljoint? Which begs the question if this can be done for a bottom balljoint how come no ones developed a sealed balljoint for classic mini hubs (you can only get them for metro hubs)

I look forward to seeing them fitted.
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Old 15-11-2017, 08:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey View Post
Interesting, thanks for posting the pic. What is the bit pictured at the bottom for?

If itís a sealed unit, I wonder if itís based on the metro balljoint? Which begs the question if this can be done for a bottom balljoint how come no ones developed a sealed balljoint for classic mini hubs (you can only get them for metro hubs)

I look forward to seeing them fitted.
I assume the little bit is to blank off the spring and grease port in the hub? It is a good question, sealed units would be so much easier to fit. I might be due to the space restriction at the top of the hub.

I have to take my engine out and to do some gearbox work next week this will obviously entail removing the hubs so I will fit these before they go back on.
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Old 16-11-2017, 08:14 PM   #19
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Does anyone know who “Fletcher Motorsport” are? I can’t find any info on them apart from the exhaust company...
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Old 16-11-2017, 08:28 PM   #20
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Quick search of the tinterweb and found these! http://www.spdautomotive.co.uk/acata...INTS-3601.html or here as well http://www.minispares-online.co.uk/n...m-ball-joints/
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Old 16-11-2017, 09:45 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rorenapier View Post
If there is any more stress it is very very little



Anything will break if its loose... Sounds like operator error more than anything..

Racing in the Migs will certainly put a lot more stress into them than anything on the road.. cornering on slicks at 70mph with kerbs thrown in....
If you wheel is moving back and forth you have a problem with substandard bushes.

To the OP, you wont have any problem running these. Ill be putting a set on my racecar (which runs sticky 13" slicks) over the winter and will have no issues in my mind with them.
well i got to admire your confidance rorenapier , thats fair,
monkey> after seeing keiths photos i can say that, forgetting the length of them, they are limeted life race parts! no grease nipple and no ajustmant shims, they do look well made but lack of workable parts puts me off even more, even if they wher normal length i still dont see them as usefull,
apart from race(limeted life then throw)
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Old 17-11-2017, 01:18 AM   #22
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Dropped your balls monkey?

KAD limiters on mine, minispares 4 pots don't touch, 700 point turns are not a problem now

What's a standard rack nowadays? The KAD ones work but with all the quick racks or god knows how many racks are available you never know exactly what you have and the same with me but they work on mine
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Old 17-11-2017, 05:00 PM   #23
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Dropped your balls monkey?
They've been flying low for quite some time now....



Quote:
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Dropped your balls monkey?
KAD limiters on mine, minispares 4 pots don't touch, 700 point turns are not a problem now
Maybe I'll try this first before adding droppers. Does it really reduce the full turn lock that much?
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Old 17-11-2017, 05:31 PM   #24
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nice posh box though .. like an apple product
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Old 17-11-2017, 10:57 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by monkey
Does it really reduce the full turn lock that much?
When you got a honda/vauxhall/rover up front in a mini trust me lock to lock is the last thing you should be worried about

I think you are trying to refine it too much. You had one on the road before so you know trying to chase every little vibration and noise is a fruitless task

Its the same with the lock to lock, if thats the only reason to fit them I personally wouldn't. To go from 1 and a half turn full lock to around just over 1 turn to full lock is nothing really, bigger fish to fry

Bent tie bars on the Allspeed frame seem to be a hit n miss with people, bottom line is you need to have everything setup properly but you will definitely for sure need lots of positive castor etc

Most garages really do hate working on the Allspeed setup with bent tie bars, one minor adjustment one side messes up the other then it takes an age for them to line up altogether
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Old 18-11-2017, 08:05 PM   #26
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The problem with the last one was the 4 pots were hitting the tie bar. Unsure if this was due to being on 10s. In the end I had to file away a little of the caliper which I'm really trying to avoid this time.

I heard going for normal 2 pots solves all of this but I got a set of 4 pots for a price I couldn't say no to
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Old 18-11-2017, 11:21 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by monkey
The problem with the last one was the 4 pots were hitting the tie bar. Unsure if this was due to being on 10s
Did you ever have it setup properly? I know you didn't have it on the road for long but with these its trial and error, a simple one off tracking won't do it

Been quite a few topics about callipers hitting Allspeed tie bars but normally its always the same thing
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Old 19-11-2017, 01:30 PM   #28
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Did you ever have it setup properly? I know you didn't have it on the road for long but with these its trial and error, a simple one off tracking won't do it

Been quite a few topics about callipers hitting Allspeed tie bars but normally its always the same thing
Fair point there, so do you think I should stick with a limited rack for now?
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Old 20-11-2017, 12:21 AM   #29
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Yeah get some rack limiters or maybe even a quick-rack?

You could make some rack limiters up yourself if your savvy enough, end of the day they are just plastic collars with a groove cut out (to hold a slim line cable tie) then you just heat them up to prise them apart, put them on and tie them up

But if you are able to get some plastic collars that wrap the steering bar even if they are bigger it won't matter as you will be cutting them in two half moon shapes - the rack limiters are a complete loop with a cut out to be able to pull them apart and prise them on, but two half moons would be a helluva lot easier, just make sure the plastic collar width is correct, too little and lock will hit, too much and you won't have much lock in the first place

If you get some that don't have a lot of height to them you can just cable tie them up, they ain't going anywhere so the groove won't matter

Other option is just to buy them, they are cheap, then make two cuts to make two half moons and tie them up, thats what I would do but put the above option in incase you have something lying around the house that could work

I did do a fitting guide over on TMF about these but after all the photobucket debacle its gone, if I get time I'll host it again there and link it here just for a guide
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Old 20-11-2017, 12:26 AM   #30
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Forgot to ask

Seems silly to ask but how was lock to lock, what I mean is yeah your callipers are hitting but did it really matter? Yes it takes another point or two to turnaround but overall in day to day driving?

Its just a setting thing but I'm sure theres a few on here that just ran as is, not even sure why I limited my rack maybe because it looked like fun and wanted to fit in with the other cool kids
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