16v Mini Club Forums  

Go Back   16v Mini Club Forums > General Public Area > General 16v Mini Chat

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 14-12-2017, 08:19 PM   #1
Dutchy1978
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 85
Default Rover - lowering without scraping???

Can it be done? I can lower the front ok but the rear tyre scrapes on the rear quarter if I lower it.
I dont want to tub the rears just yet as it has not been long since the resto.
Setup:
Road race coil springs with hi-los
Spax Adjustable shocks

I just want the rear down another inch or so but without it scraping every time I go over a small bump.
What have others done that works?

Dutchy1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-12-2017, 09:50 PM   #2
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,803
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

seems like pysics , do the sports pack arches wrap in under the metal contact aria thats rubbing?
do your spax up 1/2 way(harder) then lower) then run tyres at 10 - 15 psi to compansate for the harder shock setting,
take cair throghout this and road test cairfully,
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-12-2017, 08:55 AM   #3
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,177
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

there is no real answer to this. Best option I can offer is to ditch the coils and go back to rubber cones (Minispares red dot not Genuine OEM), the coil springs are not rising rate springs like the rubber cones are (ie they get stiffer the more you compress them). Then fit the ERA style bumpstops in the rear cones which help prevent rubbing

You could try fitting a rear antiroll bar which would stiffer up the rear a bit but that will also have a effect on the handling and you'll get more oversteer.

As Shaun says the Sports pack arches does wrap under the arch so has added an extra couple of mm to the "thickness" of where the wheels are rubbing. You could cut this away but it would not gain you much more clearance.
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun

Last edited by Oz; 15-12-2017 at 09:02 AM.
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-12-2017, 10:26 AM   #4
Dutchy1978
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 85
Default

Thanks for the feedback. The arches do tuck under but would only take away about 3-4mm and would in-turn make the tyres rum on the metal quarter. Id rather the plastic rub over metal.

Any other ideas out there? Photos even?
Dutchy1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-12-2017, 12:21 PM   #5
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,803
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchy1978 View Post
Thanks for the feedback. The arches do tuck under but would only take away about 3-4mm and would in-turn make the tyres rum on the metal quarter. Id rather the plastic rub over metal.

Any other ideas out there? Photos even?
im going to take a gamble that the plastic molding is not a true fit that follows the steel shape, more likely its a bit crude and there is some bigger gaps,
would you take the wheels off and give it a push where the rub marks are?
its just a idia
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-12-2017, 01:21 PM   #6
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,177
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

the weight of the wheel crashing up in to the arch or being pressed against it will easily bend the plastic until it fully contacts with the steel. He wants to lower it and inch and I'll bet there is nowhere near an inch gap between the arch and the body. I believe the issue is the springs not being rising rate so you have to allow more arch clearance for the wheels to move in meaning a higher ride height.
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-12-2017, 02:43 PM   #7
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,803
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

yes i get you oz, the plastic when rubbing makes a horrid racket,
as you say>i think lol its nothing to do with how thick the plastick lip is,
and yes the spring is bounceing to much,
thats why i sugested stiffening up the spax and letting tyre down to counteract,
waighting for dutchy to say where the contact is, because it wont be where you think!
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-12-2017, 12:07 PM   #8
Dutchy1978
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
im going to take a gamble that the plastic molding is not a true fit that follows the steel shape, more likely its a bit crude and there is some bigger gaps,

would you take the wheels off and give it a push where the rub marks are?

its just a idia


The arch definitely had no gaps. The rubbing is top and centre of the arch. In fact I checked it today and the plastic has actually worn away and now the tyre is rubbing on metal.
Oz is correct in that I need to keep a larger gap between the arch and tyre to allow for the spring to bounce. There doesn't seem to be any rising rate in the spring.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
yes i get you oz, the plastic when rubbing makes a horrid racket,
as you say>i think lol its nothing to do with how thick the plastick lip is,
and yes the spring is bounceing to much,
thats why i sugested stiffening up the spax and letting tyre down to counteract,
waighting for dutchy to say where the contact is, because it wont be where you think!

Sorry, I should have said I have KYB non adjustables on the rears at the moment and Spax adjustables on the front. I have the spax rears in the garage to be fitted but didn't want to go to the trouble of removing both LH & RH tanks to fit them if it wasn't going to make a difference to the bouncing and scraping.

I can try and get a photo tomorrow.
Dutchy1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-12-2017, 12:34 PM   #9
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,803
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

yes thats the hammer! you need the spax ajst on rear if you stand any chance,
trick> cut 2 inspection holes behind seat/ rear bulkhead so you dont have to remove tanks,
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-12-2017, 08:39 PM   #10
AGoaty
Senior Member
 
AGoaty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire
Posts: 2,845
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
Default

When I looked at the pics of the Mini, it looks low already. I am pretty sure the only real way to get it to stop rubbing is tubbing the arches and raising the plastic arch a similar amount.

Everything else is not really going to gain anything but a few mm's.
__________________
If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.
AGoaty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-12-2017, 11:56 PM   #11
Dutchy1978
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
When I looked at the pics of the Mini, it looks low already. I am pretty sure the only real way to get it to stop rubbing is tubbing the arches and raising the plastic arch a similar amount.


Unfortunately it isn't low at all. See below.

Photos attached. LH has started to cut through the plastic and onto the metal. RH is already through to metal. (Drivers side)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
yes thats the hammer! you need the spax ajst on rear if you stand any chance,
trick> cut 2 inspection holes behind seat/ rear bulkhead so you dont have to remove tanks,

Thanks for the tip. Any photos of how where the access hole it should be cut to access the top of the shockers?




Dutchy1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2017, 03:11 AM   #12
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,803
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

i dont have pics dutchy but its simple enough to work out when you have pulled the seat out,
and thanks to the bmc works team at abingdon for the tip
i disscoverd it on grx 310d and grx555d but not in 8 emo when i was lucky enough to work on them,
as andrew says you will be lucky but dont forget to let tyres down,
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2017, 06:50 AM   #13
Yellow
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 506
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
Default

Idea I used on mine. Remove the damper, take off the rubber dust cover, refit the damper and compress suspension to the lowest point you require. Measure how much of the damper rod is showing. Make a rubber stop to wrap around the damper rod and act as a bump stop on the top of the damper body. It will now be impossible for the tyre to contact. On mine I used rubber bushes slit to slide round the rod, then held in place with lock wire. It is a bit of a pain as you have to take the damper off and refit it twice, but it works. One other thought is it rubbing on normal compression or only during cornering? If it's cornering, I found a rear anti roll bar helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2017, 06:57 AM   #14
Dutchy1978
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 85
Default

Thanks Yellow. Rear anti roll bar might be the go down the track however it is mainly when driving in a straight line and going over bumps. Some of our terrible highways/freeways are quite bumpy. Dont notice it in an SUV but the mini cops a hiding.
A bump stop will also be fitted but at the moment just want the springs or shockers sorted first.
Dutchy1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.