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Old 20-11-2017, 12:43 AM   #31
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If you got the chrome extension you should be able to view it

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums...rack-limiters/

Hth
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Old 20-11-2017, 08:17 AM   #32
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I think I just really want to avoid having the caliper hitting the tie bar...because well it shouldn't

I think I'll go for a limited rack to start off with and then add the droppers if needed. I was gonna go down the route of buying a sportspack rack from Minispares which I believe have the limiters fitted.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 22-11-2017, 09:09 PM   #33
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I fitted these today, All went to plan very easy to fit and work well for caliper clearance. The only minor issue I had was the the 1 1/2" balljoint socket was just long enough and no more to torque up. The clearance is hard to see in the photos but its about 8mm now and was just tipping beforehand, I also have rack limiters fitted. Any questions fire away.









r







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Old 22-11-2017, 09:32 PM   #34
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looking good,,dose your 1 1/2 have a shamfur all around the opening so it dont grip right in close to contact spot ? if you know what i meen? i masheaned mine off flush,
and can you see any way to drill up throgh so grease can work up?
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Old 22-11-2017, 09:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
looking good,,dose your 1 1/2 have a shamfur all around the opening so it dont grip right in close to contact spot ? if you know what i meen? i masheaned mine off flush,
and can you see any way to drill up throgh so grease can work up?
I know what you mean, it does have a chamfer and I usually machine my big sockets to remove but thats not the problem, The depth is the issue. I don't see a way to let grease in without damaging the ball unless a tech drawing was available. I prefer a sealed unit, so much easier to fit and a modern design, What car do you go out and grease at the weekend nowadays.
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Old 22-11-2017, 09:49 PM   #36
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good i just wanderd, as in man shop talk,
i dont grease any car as you say, apart from minis lol
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Old 22-11-2017, 10:06 PM   #37
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Interesting to see it all together, thanks for taking the time with the pics.


Also as a side note, I was always told to have the bolts with the nuts at the bottom. That way if the nut works itself loose, the bolt stays in and you have a bit of a chance.
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Old 23-11-2017, 08:06 AM   #38
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Interesting to see it all together, thanks for taking the time with the pics.


Also as a side note, I was always told to have the bolts with the nuts at the bottom. That way if the nut works itself loose, the bolt stays in and you have a bit of a chance.
Yes that is good practice, but if you use allen head cap bolts you can't get the allen key in there with it assembled. Having to separate and damage the balljoint possibly just to release the tie bar. So mostly you can use cap head allen bolt with Nyloc combo and job done
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Old 23-11-2017, 09:59 AM   #39
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Ah okay, makes sense! Love this forum, so much knowledge.
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Old 23-11-2017, 11:57 AM   #40
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Yes that is good practice, but if you use allen head cap bolts you can't get the allen key in there with it assembled. Having to separate and damage the balljoint possibly just to release the tie bar. So mostly you can use cap head allen bolt with Nyloc combo and job done
You have to break the balljoint with the normal nut and bolt, the reason is that the bolt can't fall out even if the nut comes off, its a design feature. Personally I wouldn't take the risk, if the tie rod detaches from the suspension arm at speed the consequences can be deadly. I'd rather suffer an extra few minutes with a Balljoint breaker once in a blue moon when you have to separate the tie rod from the lower arm. I wouldn't even risk a nyloc, I've seen worn ones that can be spun on and off by hand
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Old 23-11-2017, 12:46 PM   #41
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Perhaps a castellated nut and split pin or a cheeky bit of wirelocking?
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Old 24-11-2017, 08:27 AM   #42
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You have to break the balljoint with the normal nut and bolt, the reason is that the bolt can't fall out even if the nut comes off, its a design feature. Personally I wouldn't take the risk, if the tie rod detaches from the suspension arm at speed the consequences can be deadly. I'd rather suffer an extra few minutes with a Balljoint breaker once in a blue moon when you have to separate the tie rod from the lower arm. I wouldn't even risk a nyloc, I've seen worn ones that can be spun on and off by hand
Yes, but on a car that you built yourself it is good to regularly go around and check everything for tightness and play. Mini wasn't designed for these engines and gearboxes. Nearly all the tie rod bolts you get now from mini suppliers use a nyloc unfortunately, but if you don't have a cap head allen bolt then you don't have the issue. You can install it the other way up as per normal practice. You could always use some threadlock.
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Old 24-11-2017, 12:54 PM   #43
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just feels wrong that way up ,i would be thinking about it all the time,
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Old 24-11-2017, 01:30 PM   #44
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hmmm, so much effort just to be able to not do it right in the first place
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Old 25-11-2017, 09:12 AM   #45
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hmmm, so much effort just to be able to not do it right in the first place
What effort? If that's effort then just give up now. Haven't you got watsons frame? So no tie bar bolts for you to worry about?
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