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Old 01-06-2017, 08:04 AM   #31
Oz
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Have you had any luck on the bearing problem ? Did you speak to Clutchmasters about it ? They should be able to provide you with more shims if necessary to get the running clearances in to tolerance.

Can I ask how you measured your clearance with the engine in the subframe ?
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Old 01-06-2017, 12:07 PM   #32
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Have you had any luck on the bearing problem ? Did you speak to Clutchmasters about it ? They should be able to provide you with more shims if necessary to get the running clearances in to tolerance.

Can I ask how you measured your clearance with the engine in the subframe ?
Hey Oz, no motive or mood till now, maybe give a try tonight.

They said I might need shims but that's what I'm trying to avoid.
Also no need to further argue with them as to why they didn't provide any shims or instruction in the box, I want the easiest solution.
Imagine if someone paid a shop to put the HRB only to find that he has to remove the engine again. Who would have paid the bills?

Anyway, I bend a thin rod, measured at 5mm, tried to put it in the gap but no fit. Trimmed at 4.5mm and was a tad smaller, so 4.8mm and was a snug fit.

So most likely a 1mm spacer behind the HRB should do the job.

Any thoughts?
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:30 PM   #33
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Fair enough I can understand the lack of motivation.

Do you think you can get a 1mm spacer in through the clutch fork hole without having to take it all apart ?

I was thinking about the warning not to overthrow the bearing. I'd have thought that using the Honda master you shouldn't be able to overthrow it as the system is surely designed around the pedal travel. If not then you'd either end up having a pedal that doesn't go all the way to the floor as you'd get to the end of the clutch diaphragm deflection or you'd damage the diaphragm from deflecting it too far.
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Old 06-06-2017, 01:08 PM   #34
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Find some time to play with the bearing.

Made a spacer (tested to a friends transmission) to put behind and bled the system again to see what will happen. First of all, the gears engage a lot better but still grind a little and while I had the car in the air, even with the clutch fully depressed and any gear selected, the wheels were turning so the clutch is still not fully disengaged.



At the moment, i'm getting closer to the maximum travel of the bearing and i have no clearance between the bearing and the spring diaphragm. Clutchmasters recommended to adjust the master cylinder to push just a little more and fit a pedal stop if required. Not a direct fit at all!

Once again they confirmed that their bearing should work with either the OEM single disk setup or their twin disk..

Fingers crossed until i'll play with the master cylinder rod.
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Old 15-06-2017, 07:55 AM   #35
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Oh YES!!! Everything works now!!!

Solution: Mini Master cylinder.
Even removed the spacer I made to put behind the bearing! Adjusted the clutch pedal lower so not even a pedal stop is required.

Works like a charm! God, I haven't been so happy with the Mini since the first time it fired up!

Now, the feeling is very light pedal and super progressive engagement.

As far as the new gears, drove it like a hooligan last night, 3rd and 4th gears are just a bit longer, you can only tell at the redline, especially on 3rd where before I was missing this extra few km of speed at the top.
LS 5th gear is awesome! 90 km/h @ about 2500, 110 @ ~3000 and 150 @ ~ 4000

It doesn't bog down, the gap from 4th to 5th is only noticeable above 4000 rpm. I was afraid that it might be a bit overkill but it is just perfect!

Oh and the radiator! Last night it was 23C ambient temp. The dual pass rad kept the car constantly at 86C! Even at WOT in 5th it didn't rise at all! With the previous rad it would climb until the fan came on. It only went to 90 when going home until I open the garage and go inside, checked around for any leaks and turn the car off!

Also installed he AEM Wideband. More on this when I get a last tune.

Such a joy, everything worked as I was planning and hoping!
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Old 15-06-2017, 12:53 PM   #36
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Great news mate, I'm glad you got it all sorted
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Old 20-06-2017, 11:18 AM   #37
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Just a thought, were you able to measure the throw of the bearing using the Mini master cylinder ? I was just wondering whether you could check that it was not being over-extended ?
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Old 21-06-2017, 12:19 PM   #38
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That's good to hear you got the bearing working in the end, get some vids up
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Old 22-06-2017, 07:47 AM   #39
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Quote:
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Just a thought, were you able to measure the throw of the bearing using the Mini master cylinder ? I was just wondering whether you could check that it was not being over-extended ?
Hey, OZ! I haven't actually, but the first time with the honda Master cylinder, i had to press the clutch pedal 5 times to get it working, so it leaked at this point. Now it works very well, always checking for leaks. I did put the rod I used to measure before(6mm) and the bearing seemed just a hair longer than that, so i should be within the 6.35mm of it's maximum travel.

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That's good to hear you got the bearing working in the end, get some vids up
Yes, it's such a relief! I always have a Gopro mounted inside but i removed it until i fix the car. Two days ago, i went on a late night ride, came across a Leon cupra, Colt CZT and an Alfa 159 3.2. Did some pulls with them, the fastest was the CZT which the driver told me it was 285 bhp. He was just as fast as me! He pulled away half a car when we started, i was on 3rd gear@5000rpm but i closed the gap by the time in 4th @ redline. Looked at the GPS=200km/h

I also had a 4 wheel alignment now that i fitted the rear KAD brackets. Goes pretty straight but due to the LSD if the road is uneven it will still try to wander depending on the surface, speed, gear etc. Pretty happy overall.

Some pics of the finished rad.











and the Master cylinder

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Old 22-06-2017, 08:04 AM   #40
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Hey, OZ! I haven't actually, but the first time with the honda Master cylinder, i had to press the clutch pedal 5 times to get it working, so it leaked at this point. Now it works very well, always checking for leaks. I did put the rod I used to measure before(6mm) and the bearing seemed just a hair longer than that, so i should be within the 6.35mm of it's maximum travel.
Ok, that's good news

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and the Master cylinder

I hope I'm wrong but this photo looks like the fluid is leaking out of where the union screws into the master cylinder and the fluid has been running down the tall part and pooling on the flat top. Usually the union tightens down with a few threads still sticking out the top of the Master Cylinder but this looks like you've had to screw it all the way down, are you sure it is tightened down against the taper inside the Master Cylinder because if not it will leak through the threads under the pressure when you push the pedal down.
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Old 22-06-2017, 08:25 AM   #41
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I tried to paint the MC before fitment and during assembly i kind of messed it and since it worked i never bother to remove it and paint it again, so i just wiped it with a cloth.

To be honest I'm not aware of what you're saying about how much tighten it needs but thanks a lot for your observation!! I'll definitely keep an eye on this!

Do you think it would have shown signs of leak right from the start? I've already put another 150km mixed driving and no signs yet.
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Old 22-06-2017, 08:30 AM   #42
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You mean like in the below picture? I'll take a look!

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Old 22-06-2017, 10:51 AM   #43
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Yes, that picture is perfect. Inside the master cylinder where you thread the pipe and union in to, the threads stop and the bottom of the hole has a taper down to the hole which the fluid comes out of the cylinder through. The end of the copper pipe should have a flare on the end and the Union that fits over the pipe and screws in to the Master cylinder should be longer than the threads in the master cylinder so that the flare at the end of the pipe can seat against the taper and form a seal to stop the fluid leaking out when you tighten the union. My concern is that the union you have used has gone fully in to the master cylinder so the hexagonal part that you put a spanner on has tightened directly on the Master cylinder and that makes me concerned that the union isn't long enough for it to tighten against the flare so it can seal against the taper in the bottom of the threaded part of the master cylinder. I hope that makes some sense.
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Old 22-06-2017, 05:11 PM   #44
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The hydraulic bearing is very interesting. What do you mean by you've adjusted the clutch pedal so its lower?

So all you have is the hydraulic bearing fitted using a standard mini clutch master?
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Old 23-06-2017, 06:50 AM   #45
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There is a possibility that you may need a pedal stop so not to overthrow the bearing and leak. I moved the clutch pedal instead just a bit lower so I won't put a pedal stop.

Yes, ultimately you put the hydraulic bearing and the Mini master cylinder. That's it!
If you ever tried the mini master with the honda slave you know it's very hard the clutch works like a switch. Now it's like any modern car, light and progressive.
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