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Old 19-10-2017, 10:45 PM   #121
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We need a build thread from you mate You sent me a few in-progress pics by PM but everyone likes build threads and pictures
I know mate. Cannot be bothered now because photobucket is no longer free . So I have to create some other and add 200+ pics ... Part of the build of the mini is on my Instagram

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Old 20-10-2017, 09:19 AM   #122
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I know mate. Cannot be bothered now because photobucket is no longer free . So I have to create some other and add 200+ pics ... Part of the build of the mini is on my Instagram

Sent from my ASUS_Z00A using Tapatalk
If it helps, I've just started using Tapatalk to view the forum and just post photos straight off my phone onto it
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Old 24-10-2017, 05:43 PM   #123
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Cut toeboard out for the steering rack. I cut too much but I'll just box around it. If I did it again I'd cut a much smaller hole but hey ho
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Old 24-10-2017, 08:26 PM   #124
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Cut toeboard out for the steering rack. I cut too much but I'll just box around it. If I did it again I'd cut a much smaller hole but hey ho
just about right. If cut to exact size it's a pain to fit the subframe back as it takes ages to aline.


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Old 25-10-2017, 10:58 AM   #125
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Yeah, will have a play. I looked on various builds on Olli's website and tried to work out how much to cut out.

on your pic, have you allowed space for the foam seal ? The plastic centre seems to poke through quite a bit
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Old 30-10-2017, 02:44 PM   #126
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Yeah, will have a play. I looked on various builds on Olli's website and tried to work out how much to cut out.

on your pic, have you allowed space for the foam seal ? The plastic centre seems to poke through quite a bit
I threw away the foam seal and made the plastic cover to have an almost interference to the box bit.

Here is how it looks now

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Old 30-10-2017, 04:34 PM   #127
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I cut the lower section out of the piece I cut out and tack welded it back in and tried the subframe again and it fitted no problem so I've shrunk the size of the hole down and just now need to make up a box to go around it. Annoying its not a straight forward square, it's hexagonal so it's a bit of a pig to shape !

I've made a rough former out of 2mm angle bent and welded and just need to find a way to shape some 1mm steel sheet over it that will look ok. I'm going to "spot weld" it in with a mig rather than seam/butt weld and seam seal it afterwards
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Old 30-10-2017, 05:54 PM   #128
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Spot welds are for lazy People . Kidding, yh it's quite tricky to get that shape.

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Old 30-10-2017, 09:06 PM   #129
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In my defence I'm a novice welder and I was really struggling to get in to the footwell with the welder and my welding helmet got a good multiple bashing in the lower dash rail.
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Old 18-01-2018, 04:44 PM   #130
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Arghhh - having so many problems with pretty much everything I try and do on this car at the moment.

I've got no further in boxing in around the steering rack. I've had a few issues with getting the welder in the sweet spot for 1mm steel and it is so hard getting in to the foot well to try and weld the box in. It's also a lot hard than I thought making a suitable infill piece that fits nicely ....

Also I trial fitted the engine and box in the frame but I'm struggling to get it to sit properly. The engine is supposed to sit tilted forward so the plenum clears the bulkhead but with the engine in the frame I couldn't seem to get the engine tipped forward so the mounts lined up. I'm sure I'm missing something simple

Had a nightmare ordering electronic gauges for speedo and rev counter. First set I ordered the wrong size so sent them back but found out that the combo I ordered was a custom build so they couldn't refund me or swap them but agreed to do a 50% discount on a new set in the right size. They arrived and stupidly I put them on a shelf in the garage. I got them out over Christmas hols and they were the right size but had the wrong display and needle colour. I had a nightmare with our Customs dept getting the new set sent through as they wanted to make me pay tax again so I had to put a case to them that they were replacement items for the previous set I had already paid full tax on. Can't be peachd to go through all this again so gonna see if I can sell the gauges and stick with the standard Mini ones I was using before

When I removed the speedo cable set up Watsons fitted when they built my car the speedo cable was held in place with silicon sealant and cable ties !!!! It looks lik ethey modified a Honda VSS sender and then made a boss that they then fitted to the Honda end of a modified cable and "stuck" it to the VSS sender and tied it down with cable ties for good measure !! It looks like if I can get hold of a rubber grommet for an earlier cable clutch gearbox I can cobble together something a bit more practical. I don't supoose anyone had an old Honda speedo cable with grommet or just the grommet item #3 on this diagram ?

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Old 19-01-2018, 09:36 AM   #131
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Just a thought, is there some way of fitting the electronic Vss (top half) to the original drive and do away with the cable entirely? That would give you a wide choice in instruments.
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Old 19-01-2018, 10:48 AM   #132
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Just a thought, is there some way of fitting the electronic Vss (top half) to the original drive and do away with the cable entirely? That would give you a wide choice in instruments.
This is the way I was going. I was going to use a hall sensor on an electronic speedo. I had spent a lot of time looking for one that would look fairly stock behind the standard Mini wood dash. I don't want to run aftermarket dash and different looking clocks. I found the only set that I liked but the problems have meant I have lost the drive to send them back again. The Standard Rover clocks worked fine, the speedo needs recalibrating but that can be dealt with pretty easily, I just thought the electronic ones would be an easy swap but with these issues and the fact that it is actually very hard to get them fitted behind the dash and retain the Mini fuel and temp gauge.

At this point I feel its easier to reuse the stuff that was working before I stripped the car but I just don't want to refix the speedo cable as Watsons had.

I have posted another thread in which it seems that it is possible that the speedo cable and grommet from the Rover 200 that used the Honda D series engine (up to 95) may have a compatible speedo cable that will connect to the Mini clocks and Honda box, if so then this seems the easiest way forward now
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Old 22-01-2018, 03:10 PM   #133
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http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthrea...720#post376720

Just a gratuitous link to the other thread mentioned above. I am going to try a new R200 cable and grommet and see if that works. If it does I will update the thread so that anyone who wants to use the Rover clocks can benefit from the info
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Old 31-01-2018, 02:19 PM   #134
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I bought the R200 cable and grommet and set about modifying the VSS to take the cable.



Standard VSS



Modified VSS





On the other end of the cable I cut 110-120mm off the rubber tube covering the cable to be able to fit the bulkhead grommet.



I opened up the speedo cable hole in the bulkhead to an egg shape to fit the Rover 200 grommet that's fitted on the cable



A more in depth How-To has been stickied in the Honda Chat Forum

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37880
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Old 07-04-2018, 03:51 PM   #135
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I finally managed to get something made to cover the steering rack





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