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Old 25-05-2011, 10:32 AM   #1
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,065
Subframe: Home Made
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Make: Rover
ECU: standard
Default Wiring Guide and Diagrams

I can now offer a loom conversion service (plug and play looms) - pm me for details

I’ve been meaning to make a wiring guide for some time and had to do a loom recently so I’ve finally gotten around to it, could someone sticky this?

This is for a MEMS 1.9 (EU2) loom, i.e. rover 200/400/mgf with the dizzy and single coil pack. It is also the same as the MEMS 2j 143bhp vvc engines. The later MEMS 3 looms are very similar so this should give you a good start – I will hopefully add a full mems3 guide later.

When you remove the loom from the donor car make sure you get the complete engine loom and where it connects to the rest of the car take the plugs and cut off a few inches of spare wire. Also get the fuse box attached to the engine loom and again cut off wires leading to the rest of the car. Also try and get the fan relay (plus wiring) which is usually near the fuse box. You’ll also need the 5as immobiliser, ecu and the keyfob. These must be kept as car sets as they are coded together, you will also need the plug and a length of wiring for the 5as which is found under the dash (right up behind the clocks) of the rover 200s/25 and I think the 400/45. I think it is behind the centre console in the mgf. Finally make sure you have the multi-function relay unit, this plugs into the main engine loom so is usually attached. Try not to cut any of the engine loom up.
These are the plugs you will need to get running.
1. The main engine loom to body loom plug, usually grey this is connector number C162 in the rover rave manual:

2. This round plug, this goes to the fan so will be connected to the fan relay later:

3. The 5as grey plug, some units have 2 plugs – you only need the grey one to run the engine:

4. Fuse box plugs, unwrap the loom and you’ll see which wires go into the loom and which ones got cut off:

5. Fan relay and wires:

Disconnect these plugs from the loom to make things easier then connect them together as the diagram below, then tape this ‘mini’ loom up to make it neat and easier to handle:

There is a thick red wire which goes from the fuse box, into the engine loom and then emerges out again and is attached to a battery clamp. This is the main power supply and the link from the alternator back to the battery, the easiest thing to do is to remove the battery clamp and connect this to the main starter motor connector then connect the main battery cable in the mini (which originally goes to the starter/solenoid) to the main terminal on the starter as well. Note you do not need the mini solenoid for this setup.

The spare wires coming out of the main fuse box can now be used to supply the rest of the car with power, so where the mini loom originally got its feed from (usually off the solenoid) is where to connect these.

Any other connectors/wires left over are not needed, there are a few for aircon/abs etc etc so don’t worry about them.

Make sure you connect all earths and attach a couple of hefty earth straps between the engine block and chassis. When first connecting the battery you’ll need to press the lock button on the keyfob 4 times to realign it with the 5as – it will click when this happens, then unlock it and you should be able to turn on the ignition and hear the fuel pump, and the ignition light should come on. You can now start the car!

Good luck!

edit: rover 400 loom added below (pm me for hi res)

edit: DOH! i've got one wire wrong in the diagrams-
the WN wire from the grey plug is the oil pressure warning light, so should not be connected to the other wires. connect this to the mini loom, usually the same colour (WN) unless you have an oil pressure gauge.

I'll update the diagrams asap. - done.

You may need to add a diode into the ignition warning lamp circuit if you are using mini gauges - if you don't then the power from the alternator can drive the switched live circuits and keep the engine running even with the key removed! Just solder in a diode (1N5400 works well - see: http://www.maplin.co.uk/3a-silicon-rectifiers-46405) between the bulb and alternator (brown/yellow wire) with the end with a band around it pointing towards the alternator.

Also If you want to add remote central locking or total closure power windows the open/close pulse feeds from the 5as unit are the orange and pink wires.

Last edited by Geehawk; 26-07-2017 at 07:57 AM.
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