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Old 21-07-2014, 03:04 AM   #31
jimfai
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Default sc build

minispares 5 speed with 3.4 final drive, hope it holds up
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2.0L vtec, custom subby, in a non extended nose saloon. mini saloon with an MI16 PUG driveline. possible zcars saloon underway. 1960 MGA with cologne 2.8L ford conversion.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:45 PM   #32
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update and question again, got the motor running, working on getting the idle right. brakes are working and the clutch is as well, lots of tinkering with the wilwood set up but i like how it feels now. car has the "newer" version KAD quick shifter. not liking how it works, very tough to locate gears and get in and it keeps popping out of gear have only driven the car around the block several times but it jumps out of second and third while going down the road unless i hold my hand on it? any ideas. everyones help has been great so far thanks, jim
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:49 PM   #33
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Have you changed the front subframe recently for a different one. I had same problem when i used a later injection enginwd frame un a car which had the original shifter. The later frames sit the engine 0.5 inch further forward and if using the early shifter etc the gears dont engage properly.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:04 AM   #34
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i am pretty sure the subby is original to the car, 1961 austin countryman, but i believe the mechanic who started the build modified the mounts slightly so that the engine could fit under the stock bonnet but i will have to verify this. what did you do for yours? hopefully not swap the subby?
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:52 AM   #35
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Jimfai, it will take a bit of adjusting of the engine tee-mounts until the inclination is spot on and the gear linkage align. My subframe is original and I also use a new generation KAD quickshift.
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:37 AM   #36
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Is you gear changer bolted solid to the tunnel near park brake?
If it is your engine may be rocking and changeing gear for you,
Do not underestamaght the need for (as near to top of engine stabilisers as possible)
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:35 PM   #37
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i have a stablizer on the motor, doesnt seem to move very much

gimenofl, so did you just loosen the mount bolts on the motor and pry it around a bit?
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:11 PM   #38
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Hi,

I have a t bone which is adjustable on top and two at the bottom. The I Pad has not battery, but later I will post a pic. Did it pop out of gear before? Happy with the engine?

Lluís
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:31 PM   #39
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I have the top stabiliser to engine, front gearbox mount two rear gearbox mounts. Ir might feel solid enough but the torque from these engines can make the lump move about quite a bit...
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:46 PM   #40
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ok i will check the stabilizers and the engine position. i dont like the way the shifter base seems to be loose and after doing a google search it seems this is a common problem, i need to take it apart and see if the screws were installed correctly by the previous owner.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:35 PM   #41
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Could be as simpel as the rubber dust gaiter on the gear linkage rod is to long/stiff .cut a piece of..
Or as you said a 5 speed.. adjusting under the car as mispares 5 speed full set up (inc gear linkage modification) is used..
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:40 PM   #42
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took it apart, the previous owner totally botched the kad unit. they drilled holes in the side and put in bolts higher up than the two on the unit, for what reason i cant figure. the 2 c clips were stripped and the upper one would slide up the shaft after install letting the lower nylon ball slide up as well limiting travel. put in a stock shifter unit for now and the tranny seems to work well. not sure if i can buy pieces for the KAD unit or just get a new one.
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:16 AM   #43
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so a couple tuning questions for you guys: engine starts fine but idles very badly, i was getting a back fire on cylinder 3 so i tightened all the clamps on the intakes, seems to have that part done. wont idle, tried adjusting what i believe is the idle screw in the middle on the underside, doesn't do much of anything. every time i drive it stalls out when you push in the clutch at a stop sign. the fellow who helped me get it going and is pretty knowledgeable with programming ecu's told me to bring it to him after driving 500 miles, cant imagine driving that much with how poorly it runs, did you fellows tune yours straight away?
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:08 PM   #44
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Hi,

There are a few things that you can do before programming. One is balancing the throttle bodies, which easier than it seems. Get a vacuum meter and try to get the same vacuum at idle on each throttle body measured at the vacuum probe intakes. you must go left to right, as otherwise changing the left (with the engine in front of you) changes all of the others.

Typhoon adjusts the idle with the spark advance and the injector pulse. Which map are you using?

Make sure that in case you download a map from the site of Specialist Components, all other parameters correspond to the sensors you have in the engine, fuel pressure the first.

The adjustment of the Vernier pulleys is also tricky, but fortunately easy to change, get the cams 90% adjusted (TDC should put the cams in tangential contact with the tappets) and the rest you adjust by varying the relative movement of the pulleys. This has a huge effect on the idle quality.
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:06 PM   #45
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thanks, i poked around a bmw bike engine site for some tech tips on tuning and they were very adamant about not adjusting the balance on the tb's as they said it was preset at the factory? are the balance screws the ones with blue painted on them ? i have a vacuum gauge and i am used to using it from working on mgb's. i have a brand new ecu from sc and they claimed they installed the ideal map for my motor, one they had used for a new motor they had just sold and bench ran.
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