![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: nr Peterborough
Posts: 2,371
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1400
Make: Rover
ECU: Megajolt
|
![]()
Other suggestions:
Seriously though, how much is a Ti system likely to weigh? 30kg for your steel one is a lot, but how much could that be dropped by doing like Dan mentioned, and having a well thought through stainless one made up? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,380
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
|
![]()
Is it worth asking Carl Austin at Force Racing for some advice ? He might even be able to fab one for you ?
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build has begun |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Strichen Aberdeenshire
Posts: 1,374
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1800
Make: Rover
ECU: K maps 160 Race
|
![]()
I dread to think of the price when you look at the price of the lower rover metro arms that they sell £550 and that's with no rose joints and if you want them on car adjustable it's even more.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,011
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
|
![]()
With all the ti/alloy/carbon parts now available for minis I'm surprised no one makes a lightweight exhaust. I might have found an affordable solution, will update when I have more info.
__________________
my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Strichen Aberdeenshire
Posts: 1,374
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1800
Make: Rover
ECU: K maps 160 Race
|
![]()
Good man!
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Southport
Posts: 164
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1600
Make: Honda
ECU: Standard
|
![]() |
![]() |
#22 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,999
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
|
![]() Quote:
It’s my cardboard tube idea isn’t it?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,011
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
|
![]()
not quite, but i have found a place that sells 2" plastic drainpipe tube - i'm sure it will take the heat as its only from the flexi back and it's very light
__________________
my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,999
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
|
![]() Quote:
Great idea, much easier to get pre-made bends too! I wouldn’t get the push fit type, I don’t think the o rings would cope, but the weld together type with the poly pipe cement would work and be less likely to blow at the joints. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 214
Subframe: Allspeed
|
![]()
All jokes aside
If you took a car with an original equipped Ti exhaust and replaced it with a stainless or mild steel jobby , it wouldn’t be any slower. In our real world cars a whole lot of lightweight bits you will net a tiny gain in all areas. Consider replacing rotational parts with light weight bits like smaller or lightweight rims or a lightweight flywheel too |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#26 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,999
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
|
![]() Quote:
Agree, the only advantages are the weight and the “exotic” sound. Quote:
There are lightweight suspension and braking parts that will make a big difference to handling as it’s unsprung weight, starts getting expensive though Gaz, trust me! ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire
Posts: 2,945
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
|
![]()
Yes Dan. I remember you saved a little weight by getting an aluminium plate on your wiper motor. That saved around 4 grams...
![]()
__________________
If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#28 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,999
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
|
![]() Quote:
Looks pretty too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,011
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
|
![]()
I'm not worried about saving loads of weight, i was only really looking into this as my exhaust system is heavier than most due to it having extra large boxes etc. I could fit a single (smaller) box system in thinner stainless and save a fair bit of weight, but i like the volume of my exhaust so really needs to be a twin with decent size boxes. I've been looking into using titanium motorbike exhaust as there's loads of them on ebay very cheap but the only problem is making them fit - i can't weld it like mild or stainless steel. and the other problem is i think they will be pretty noisy.
__________________
my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: whitby yorkshire
Posts: 222
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1.8
Make: Honda
ECU: standard
|
![]()
i made a rear exhaust out of copper pipe once, i didnt bother with the back box just had a middle box and stretched the copper pipe out gradualy getting wider towards the end, it was loud at low revs and not a t high revs, sounded very odd.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|