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Old 17-07-2018, 04:33 PM   #16
InstantCustard
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But he wants a box thats closer to a Mini box, a G4 although would be revvy and fun, Id have thought it wouldnt be quite what hes after, Id suggest a C6 for the best all rounder.


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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 17-07-2018, 05:24 PM   #17
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But he wants a box thats closer to a Mini box, a G4 although would be revvy and fun, Id have thought it wouldnt be quite what hes after, Id suggest a C6 for the best all rounder.


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I thought you knew Shaun better than that!

He'll want the fastest way, 0-100. Country lanes around Devon, you can only do that anyway. Flat out or go home...
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Old 17-07-2018, 05:49 PM   #18
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I thought you knew Shaun better than that!



He'll want the fastest way, 0-100. Country lanes around Devon, you can only do that anyway. Flat out or go home...


Hes not flat out everywhere, Ive been sat next to him when hes drive by slower than my grandad


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I love it
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Old 17-07-2018, 06:25 PM   #19
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Ive been sat next to him when hes drive by slower than my grandad


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I'm nearly blind but could see your brake foot twitching
In 7/8 timing !!
And I didn't have the plastic seat cover on ,
So don't forget to remind me about the 110 flat out box when
My time comes to join the top boys,
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Old 17-07-2018, 06:34 PM   #20
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Basically:
Flat out revvy as feck-G4
Not quite as crazy-C4
Close ratio but with some manners-C6
Wider ratios-S4
Wide ratio with a dead 5th for motorways-S6
I wouldnt touch the G4 unless it was just purely for competition use and you wanted to be flat out everywhere, I found the C4 revvy enough, but motorways are annoying.


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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 17-07-2018, 06:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Basically:
Flat out revvy as feck-G4 110mph
Not quite as crazy-C4 127mph
Close ratio but with some manners-C6 140mph
Wider ratios-S4 156mph
Wide ratio with a dead 5th for motorways-S6 165mph
I wouldn’t touch the G4 unless it was just purely for competition use and you wanted to be flat out everywhere, I found the C4 revvy enough, but motorways are annoying.


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I've edited Dan's post to include a top speed of a VVC at 7000rpm.

Don't forget though you can build others too. A C7 is close 1-4, long 5th with 147mph or an S7 and a 177mph is total overkill.

So many variations. This is why

This is the G4 box with open diff.

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Old 17-07-2018, 07:57 PM   #22
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Ok, here's some video's of different gearbox ratio's. Same car, same driver, same track. First is the G4 open diff.



Next is the S6 with Torsen diff.



Then we have the C4 with Quaife.



Up Park straight, you can hear me not using 5th in the S6. Also on the start straight when trying to overtake, it just isn't as quick as the lower geared setup.
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Old 18-07-2018, 06:36 AM   #23
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I still maintain that with 10" wheels the best all-round is a box using the c gearset and 3.6fd (C7) for good acceleration and reasonable cruising. The problem with the 3.9 fd is 1st and second are too short and you waste the power wheel spinning - the 3.6 makes it easier to put the power down. For even better cruising the W or T ratio 5th could be used as well or even the S but that would probably be too tall unless the car does 80mph on the motorway for 90% of it's life. I recently drove over 500 miles on a mix of A,B and motorway roads over 2 days and with the C7 box it was comfortable at 70mph yet still lively in 5th for the a/b roads. I also returned over 50mpg.
Unfortunately making a C7 ratio box requires parts from several gearboxes, you will need a 3.6fd from either a freelander 1 2 litre diesel or a rover 220 turbo (petrol), a U spec C ratio 5th from a 220 turbo or MGZS 180 (v6) and a C ratio k series box.
Failing this the S6 ratios (rover 25 td) will work in a k series bellhousing and will give you a taller 4th and 5th so better for cruising etc but 1st/2nd will be extremely short.
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Old 24-07-2018, 06:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
If you have bought the Rover 25 2.0 diesel box then that will have a 3.9 final drive. It's code is S6. It is a U spec box which has stronger bearings on the main shaft.

The box is not a straight swap. The bell housing is different.

With your current C6 box and the S6 box you can swap the bell housing over and make it fit. I did this on Phoenix.

I agree, motorway driving was perfect. You get around 3000rpm at 70mph. It does slow the acceleration slightly though as the K series likes to rev. You may find it is great for cruising but having the 1.6 may be a bit over kill.

If you want to do this, I can post a link to gearbox rebuilding. Was very helpful when I did mine.


Garv, you cannot just swap the 5th gear. The main shaft holding the 5th gear is splined differently. You need the full S ratio set. Even if you could, 1 to 4 would be great but a huge jump to 5th so would be silly.

Others on here have built a C7 ratio box. Basically you need 3 boxes to do this. The bell housing from your C6, the 3.6 final drive from a Freelander diesel and the gear set from a MG ZS 180. Revs drop about 200rpm at 70mph from the C6.

Another alternative is a Freelander 1.8 petrol box. This has a wide ratio gear set and a nice cruising 5th. This box fits straight on.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=38011
Andy I have started to split the s6 box so it would be prudent to have the
link for the the box rebuild you mentioned please.
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Old 25-07-2018, 05:14 AM   #25
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Here's one that a quick google search brings up, some of the photos are a little out of focus but it's very concise! other tutorial's are available.
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Old 25-07-2018, 01:21 PM   #26
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Andy I have started to split the s6 box so it would be prudent to have the
link for the the box rebuild you mentioned please.
I posted it in post 7 on here but here it is again.

http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewt...4792482ac3076f

It's for bearing replacement but shows what's needed.

A few tips:-

Once the top of the box is open take a picture. Look closely at the 5th gear.
Keep the gear sets upright, especially the input shaft. The 5th gear has a habit of falling off when tipped. It should be flush with the synchro and have the inner boss slightly up. If it falls off, it fits both ways up and needs to locate on the the 3 lugs on the synchro, but the box won't close.

You need to swap the main shaft bearing in the bellhousing to allow the U spec, diesel shaft to fit. Remove all loose parts from the bellhousing and turn it upside down. Fill kettle and boil it. Dribble this over the casting around the area the bearing fits. Hit this with a hammer and piece of wood in between. The bearing should drop out.

The link says close the box using bolts. DO NOT do this. It should just tap together without a gap, with a mallet. Test closing it, then open and smear sealer around the joint once happy.

Are you on Facebook? If yes, add me (Andrew Goater) and use messenger for any questions. I don't see them too quickly on here.
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Last edited by AGoaty; 25-07-2018 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 25-07-2018, 06:33 PM   #27
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Thanks for that Andy.
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Old 26-07-2018, 03:56 PM   #28
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Something to consider whilst doing the conversion is the Quaife ATB, LSD is the best upgrade I have done to my car. I realise these are 700 but almost eliminates wheel spin in the lower gears. It makes the car handle fantastically, especially in wet or snow!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quaife-AT...sid=m570.l1313

A lot of people on here have driven my Mini with this fitted and gone straight out and bought one.
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Old 26-07-2018, 07:41 PM   #29
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What he said above! Quaife all the way!!!!
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