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Old 23-08-2019, 09:41 AM   #106
Dopeshow
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Nottingham
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Subframe: Allspeed
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Been a while since I last posted, ive been away on holiday and work has been mad so i've only had limited spare time. I have really just taken my time getting the front end to fit, i have ended up modifying the Allspeed frame so I can get the radiator to clear the front end, I have also cut back the runners of my exhaust manifold so the manifold sits tight upto the engine, apart from that i have loads of room (yeah right...lol). I ended up grinding some ridges off my gearbox and also my engine block to get everything as far back as possible. I am going to have to fit a Clutchmasters Hyraulic release bearing as there's not enough room for a standard slave.





As im using a Carbon from end i decided to bond the hinges to the front end. Firstly a made some stainless plates up and welded some M8 treaded bar to them, i drilled multi holes in the som the resin soaks through hopefully giving more strength.





I purchased a 1mtr sheet of carbon fibre material, it looked so nice I really didn't want to cut it up,as I already hacked my mini shell to bits whats a bit of carbon fibre, so out came the scissors. Firstly I lined up the bonnet and front end and used tiger seal to roughly bond the hinge plates to the front end. Once dry i removed the front end and began bonding the carbon fibre, I used far too much resin on the first coat so its not the best job ive seen but the strength is incredible, i used two layers of carbon fibre. I know what i am doing so next time I will be able to make a far neater job, I plan to skin the roof myself so we will see how that turns out.



As expected the front end fitted like a wizzards sleeve and I was concerned about the sheer movement around the A panel area, so I decided to install some latches. These were easy, I used the same process as I did with the hingle plates to bond the latches to the front end, as you can see I did a far neater job of these than the hinge plates.





The catches were simply welded to the A Panels



I was really happy with this solution as erricated the flex issue, it also makes the fitment so much better and as a added bonus its a belt and braces way of ensuring the front end will not flip up at speed. I will be installing some button locks at the front shortly.

I purchased some smoothy sports pack arches from ABS, i'm over the moon with the look, fitment and quality of these arches, they have a return lip on the inside which not only makes them ridged it makes them really easy to install.




Last edited by Dopeshow; 23-08-2019 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 27-09-2019, 10:27 AM   #107
Dopeshow
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Nottingham
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Subframe: Allspeed
Make: Honda
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Sorry I didnt want to mess up Keiths build thread so I will post this here.

As i'm trying trying fit everything into a standard front end i've had to modify the frame and move the rad back as far as I can, you can see from the photos below its further back that yours keith, the front of the rad misses the back of the grill by around 10mm so the rad cant go any further forward.





I have a 32mm 90 Hose joiner on the shelf but the radius is way too big so no point in welding this to the back of the rad. By eye if I can get a tighter radius elbow I think I can just squeeze something in, . I had planned making a stainless steel pipe from the rad outlet to the top of the frame from some dairy tube, just so I can route it how I want, after offering up one of these elbows it looks like I will get clearence using these fittings so I decided to search for an aluminum weld elbow. So let the searching commence, now it might just be me but these are a raspberry to find, after 2 days of searching i managed to find a shed 20 aluminum weld elblow at a place called Earls performance (great company by the way), the ID radius is 23,9mm and the OD radius is 55mm so it should be perfect for what I want, just got one ordered today, so will refit the front wheel this weekend to get some reference points on what offsets i can get away with and see if I can squeeze the elbow in, from past conversations I am guessing I need as much positive offset as I can to try and elminate the torque steer issues???

As I am not going to get the car finsihed this year, I decided to strip the engine down for a refresh, really glad I did this as it looks like the oil pump had failed and its spun two main bearings. I sent the engine off to have the crank reground, the block will be rebored and decked, the head will be skimmed, 3 angle valve job and fully polished and ported, i've brought some Skunk cams, valves, springs & retainers and also some civic type R pistons, so will be rebuilding this over the winter with some good quality bearings, so hoping for around 200bhp.

Last edited by Dopeshow; 27-09-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 27-09-2019, 03:27 PM   #108
Oz
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It also might be worth putting a wing on the RH side and checking you can still get your headlight bowl in without fouling the rad.
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Old 29-09-2019, 09:23 AM   #109
Dopeshow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz View Post
It also might be worth putting a wing on the RH side and checking you can still get your headlight bowl in without fouling the rad.
Thanks Oz, this was my main focus on positioning the rad, i've gone down the route of LED lights so i have plenty of space. Not my first choice as I originally wanted to keep the classic mini look, but this has gone out of the window due to the headlights and the fact ive had to hack away at the front vallance, so ive fitted a front spoiler to hide the butchery, sorry i mean precision modifcations

After refitting wheels this weekend it looks like im not going to have space to fit the rad hose it, its just too close for comfort. The only real solution i have is to come off the side of the rad which i'm ok with. Just a quick question, will it be ok to do this or are there baffles inside the rad i need to consider ?
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Old 06-10-2019, 12:55 PM   #110
Dopeshow
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I'm cracking on slowly. Engine is a week away from coming back from the machinists so i'm trying to get the engine bay finished and painted so I can get the engine back in and get it back on its wheels. My last post showed my rad in position so next job was to get the front end lined up so I was happy with it. What a horrible job, ive fitted the front spoiler as I had to cut away the front vallance to make the front end fit, I went with the LED lights as they are not deep so I have room between the drivers side light and the radiator, I will be also fitting a front bumper shortly, really not the look I was looking for but my hand has been forced due to space issues. The bonnet just needs adjusting but its an easy fix.



To enable me to get moving forward I had to think about the wiring as i needed to get everything welded up inside the firewall before painting. So for the fuses and relays I tried to make them as neat as possible with the limited space. Relays attach on a simple piece of flat bar that I weleded to the firewall. The fuse boxes are on some plate which ive attached to the firewall via a hinge, the plate is secured by some thumb screws, when the box is dropped down you can get access to the replays from underneath, not ideal but the best solution I can come up with.





I will tidy up the fuse plate by putting some sides on it later so you wont be able to see the fuse boxes.

to secure the wiring i used some Din rail i had in my garage, i cut them to 10mm wide pieces and will you take them onto the shell where necessary. Again simple and cheap.



I have a few days off work next week, so the firewall will be prepped and painted. Going to give it 2 coats of Jotamastic 87 and then a couple of coats of Raptor in dark grey which was used for the underside of the car, the wheel arches will be given the same treatment but i will spray these with a shultz gun so they get the stippled effect.

Last edited by Dopeshow; 06-10-2019 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 18-10-2019, 10:46 AM   #111
Dopeshow
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Quick update. Front brake pipes all made up,frame removed and sent away for blasting and painting, bulk head prepped, all has been filled and sanded back ready for painting this weekend




So the "Painting this weekend went out of the window as I massively under estimted that ammount of preperation needed to get the arches and bulkhead looking half right. I'm still not 100% happy with it but if I have to sand anymore filler the ends of my fingers are going to drop off.

All was filled smoothed and seamsealed, any bare metal was treated with POR Metal prep. Following photos are after 1 coat of Jotumastic, sencond coat is going on today, had the garage heater running all morning to get some temerature in there.





In my usual fashion ive jumped the gun with stereo system and purchased one last week. Like an idiot I have made the recess in the bulkhead way too big, when the dash is fitted I will have around 75mm of space to work with, my plan was alway to have a screen mounted in the dash but finding a DIN headset thats less than 75mm deep including the cable exits has been a task. There are cheap units on ebay but i really am not keen on going down that route, I was passing a place in my home town that i used to use, so i decided to call in for a chat. I had to laugh as i was really worried about my options and space contraints but it seems like technology has moved on from 20 years ago, gone are the days where a 4 channel amp is about 500mm square . So my solution is to have a dash mounted Ipad mini, i have brough a really nice dash mount docking kit that enables you to tilt the screen and its really easy to remove the Ipad when required. I have gone with Audison equipment, the ipad links to the amp through bluetooth, the amp itself is a 520w 8 channel amp that measures about 200mm x 100mm, there is an unamplified output for a sub as well (https://www.audison.eu/products/ap8-9-bit/), through bluetooth all channels are fully controlable both volume level and frequency level, its an unbelievable piece of kit, got a full component speaker kit for the front, the mains will be mounted in the dash where the air vents should go and the tweaters will be mounted on the upper dash rail, for the rear i have gone with 6x9 compenents, the mains will be mounted under the rear seat along with the amp so its hidden and I will mount some tweaters on the back parcel shelf. I didnt want to cut holes in the back shelf as I wanted to keep it as a firewall. I have brough an active sub for the boot that will sit on top of the spare wheel, all the wiring will be run alongside the rear loom in the roof to keep it neat. The plan is to tether the ipad to my phone so I can use spotify and use google maps as a sat nav.

Wife says i'm still a child and that i need to grow up

Last edited by Dopeshow; 30-10-2019 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:46 AM   #112
Dopeshow
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Subframe: Allspeed
Make: Honda
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As I had the primer out I painted the inside front, my engine comes back from the machine shop in a week, so im going to make a start on the wiring and try and get it running over christmas. All be be covered in sound deadning.



Finally got round to painting the engine bay in the raptor I had left over from the underside. I just thinned it down and sprayed it on using a normal spray gun with a 1.8mm nozzle, really happy with the end results and the paint is mega tough so it should last really well. I am going to spray the bottom of the arches this weekend with a shultz gun to give more protection to this area.



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Old 11-11-2019, 10:36 AM   #113
Dopeshow
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Finished product, now with stippled stone chip areas covered.

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Old 19-11-2019, 12:38 PM   #114
Dopeshow
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Subframe: Allspeed
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Been so busy at work, but trying to push forward with the build. Decided to clean to frame myself and spray it, happy with how it has turned out. Make the brake pipes up for the fornt and get the frame reinstalled.



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