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Old 22-06-2016, 08:18 AM   #46
Brumski
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There are two sizes if pulley for the pump. The dowside of using a smaller pulley is that it runs faster. Fine on normal a series lump but these are high revving engines and the pulley spins faster and can cause cavitation leading to poor pump efficiency.

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Old 02-07-2016, 07:58 PM   #47
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I bought a 180 U shaped silicon hose for the head to block coolant (due to the dry decking). However, the crank breather is kinda in the way, so i had to trim fair bit of the hose, in the end i wasn't really happy with the fitting. I will instead run 2 90 degree hoses with a join. Here is one 90 fitted (needs trimmed), i just need to buy another.



I also fitted the new standard crank dampener and torqued it up.

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Old 02-07-2016, 08:03 PM   #48
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Some final bits :

4.2 inch MED water pump pulley
nippon denso alternator
Engine mount "plate" all the way from Barcelona (wasn't the easiest to find)
a 90 degree hose and connectors.

Well the 4.2 inch pulley clears the oil hose perfectly.



It is amazing how small the denso alternator is!




Seems like the 90 degree hose i tried to use before was pretty poorly made, I.E it wasn't actually 90 degrees. the new ones seems to fit much better. I will order one more and use a joiner and it will clear the crank breather just fine.



Seems like the fan will not clear the oil hose. This hose had been a bit of a pain (see water pulley issue above). It was supplied as an add on to the kit. I think i will need to shorten the "legs" both sides of the cam belt.

Next up is the clearance between the crank damper/trigger wheel and the radiator/engine mount bracket.





I have now removed some material form the bracket and slotted the holes for the radiator part, should work now….
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:08 PM   #49
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I looked at the alternator fitting.

This nice little adjuster arrived, put together by a small company selling on ebay, customer service great. I love these small firms.



Looks alright fitted. It fouls the bottom of the alternator a bit, so i will need some spacers.



Speaking of the alternator, I will need to file about 8mm form the ear to bring the pulleys in line. Also is there any thing wrong with mounting it like this at the top ear? I.e just bolted to the water pump hole?



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Old 02-07-2016, 08:12 PM   #50
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A little more progress tonight. I am not quick as I had hoped, but thats how it is with work and everything "getting" in the way.

A quick reflection: I used to smile at some builds on here and think that people enjoyed tinkering with and building their cars more than they did driving them. I am however starting too understand the appeal of taking time and enjoying the process. I am fairly enjoying myself, having never really done anything like this before (if you hadn't noticed) but I cannot wait to drive it.

Some little bits done tonight:
Alternator filled down to bring the pulleys in line. I did it with a hand file as i didn't dare screw it up with the grinder. Took ages.



There as a hole where the original crank sensor was, having looked for a blanking plate without success, i decided to buy a second hand sensor on ebay for the pricey sum of 99p. cut all the wires off etc:



Finally put together the two 90 degree hoses on the water way for the dry deck. after trimming I was left with about a 1/4 of the hose left. An alloy joiner in the middle and everything fitted - just. It is real tight for space. The steady bracket needed trimming to fit.





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Old 04-07-2016, 02:22 AM   #51
Marcus Nordblom
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Good progress! Engine is looking sweetBetter to take the time and do everything properly the first time around then cut corners


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Old 05-07-2016, 07:26 AM   #52
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Dear Markus, Please accept my apologies for the silence.

I give you an advice: get rid of the mechanical fan. It bends under air pressure when warm and it almost ruined my engines when it ripped off all hoses head area last year. Clearance radiator side is a nightmare.

A 300mm mechanical fan works marvellously with the Typhoon fan output.

It's a very nice build and your engine spec, with dry deck for oil and water is fantastic..
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:38 PM   #53
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Thanks guys!

Also looking at what air filter will suit. Specialist components sell an ITG domed/sausage panel filter with backplate, but it is a tad pricey. They state it suits their 7 port and 16v heads.

I have found this piper cross filter which is almost identical:



I am struggling to see it working, i guess the back plate will sit between the bmw throttle bodies and the lip on the new ram pipes, since there is a 3mm gap there. However, the throttle cable "holder" will also need to enter the backplate as will the side of the throttle position sensor. Has anyone made this kind of filter work?



Another option is obviously individual cone filters, but this would mean i can't use the ram pipes.

Third option would be socks, but I have seen some threads online where they have ripped etc

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Old 07-07-2016, 06:10 AM   #54
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i just bought 4 Tea Strainers for 75p each , and took the mesh out

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Old 07-07-2016, 11:17 AM   #55
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Why not socks? I am quite happy with them.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:04 PM   #56
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I just ordered a base plate for the smaller ITG domed filter.




I figured I can play around with just the one base plate before making a full order.




The idea is to run 2 of these filters allowing space for the throttle cable. We see…...
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:23 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimenofl View Post
Why not socks? I am quite happy with them.
I have thought that they tend to slide too close to the mouth of the trumpet restricting airflow.

I have seen some internet threads where they have torn.

But if you have had a positive experience, maybe i give then a second thought.
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:04 PM   #58
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Hi, good socks do not slide. K&N ones are so rigid that they barely move at massive regimes (Dyno test).

I had one torn though, but that was mechanical.
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:46 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimenofl View Post
Hi, good socks do not slide. K&N ones are so rigid that they barely move at massive regimes (Dyno test).

I had one torn though, but that was mechanical.
I guess we are talking about different things. By "sock" i mean the soft foam slip over filters. Not the cylindrical or cone sapped rigid K&N filters you tighten in.

Assuming you mean the later, Have you managed to keep the ram pipes?
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:32 PM   #60
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A big update! cams timed in (I hope)

So after tapping the head for the oil feed and flushing it out, I was able to refit the cams. While I was at it I set the lift.

I tired following the SC guide but that method just was not gonna work. They state:

- To set the engine to TDC on piston one.
- set the cam lobes on the inlet and outlet so it just before any lift on piston one. This in essence sets the lobs on the inlet and the outlet pointing inwards.
- loosen the vernier pulley bolts.
- Add the belt, making sure that there will be enough movement in the vernier pulleys (I.e the bolt is in the middle of the slot)
- tension the belt (making sure TDC doesn't move)
- Torque up the tensioner.
- Then set the lift on piston 1 to 2mm on both the inlet and outlet using a dial gauge which sits on the cam bucket and follows its movement. This step takes ages to set up the dial gauge.

I tried this method a number of times.

Now the problem I had with that method is that I ran out of movement in the vernier pulleys. Even when I repositioned the belt (retentioned etc) so I would have maximum movement in the verniers (meaning that the i made sure i had the full slot for movement, intend of setting it in the middle) I ran out of movement at around 1mm lift.

Instead i removed the belt and then set up the lift on the cams without the belt. Added the belt and set the tensioner making sure the cams didn't move. making sure the vernier were in the middle of the slot and then tightened these up.

Has anyone managed to use the method SC have in their build guide?

This is the position of the cams at TDC after setting 2mm lift.




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