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Old 12-11-2017, 12:44 PM   #61
ZA-J
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Do you have to flash it though? I’m not sure what signal the main ECU looks to from the alarm/immobiliser ecu to allow a start? It is just an earth on the one cable that joins the two ecu’s?

It appears there is a problem with the internals of the alarm ecu as the crosstalk cable goes open circuit when the key is in the crank position.
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:18 PM   #62
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Take plugs out and turn it over a bit on starter to loosen things up and to build the oil pressure. I had to do this on my vvc after its rebuild as the compression was so high. Starter would barely turn it over

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Old 12-11-2017, 08:55 PM   #63
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It won’t crank at all. The start relay isn’t being pulled over by the crank command so starter exciter isn’t being energised.

I just can’t work out where the crank command is supposed to earth. I’m thinking an internal fault with the immobiliser/alarm ecu which is why I want to get rid of it, but I don’t know what to do with the crosstalk wire between engine and alarm ecu’s.
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Old 13-11-2017, 08:22 AM   #64
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Borrowed from another post from Gaz.

All the immobiliser needs to work is a permanent live feed, ignition on feed, earth, one wire to the ecu and one wire to the starter relay. Everything else can be removed, although leave the aerial wire the same length otherwise the range of the fob will be reduced
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Old 13-11-2017, 09:08 AM   #65
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According to the Mini MPi wiring diagram I've seen the starter relay is made live via the immobiliser so I suspect the Rover wiring will be the same.

Also have you considered whether the starter relay itself is faulty ?
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Old 13-11-2017, 09:18 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
Borrowed from another post from Gaz.

All the immobiliser needs to work is a permanent live feed, ignition on feed, earth, one wire to the ecu and one wire to the starter relay. Everything else can be removed, although leave the aerial wire the same length otherwise the range of the fob will be reduced
I've got those - except I've no idea which the aerial wire is!!? I can hear the ECU click when I lock/unlock with the fob though.

I see there is a 'key in' sensor plumbed into the immobiliser - I don't have one wired in. Will try re-attaching that tonight and see what happens.

Last edited by ZA-J; 13-11-2017 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 13-11-2017, 09:20 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz View Post
According to the Mini MPi wiring diagram I've seen the starter relay is made live via the immobiliser so I suspect the Rover wiring will be the same.

Also have you considered whether the starter relay itself is faulty ?
Rover wiring is indeed the same. I've tried different relays and tested the start relay - it's fine. If I earth the ecu end of the start relay I can make it crank, which is what makes me suspect the immobiliser ECU.
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Old 13-11-2017, 09:52 AM   #68
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The immobilizer just supplies a simple switched earth to the starter relay so this part of its operation can easily be bypassed by connecting this wire directly from the relay to earth as you have done above. The second part of the immobiliser is a coded signal sent from the immobiliser to the ecu (completely separate from the starter circuit) and cannot be bypassed unless the ecu is re-flashed/decoded by a specialist (kmaps etc), also a different immobiliser cannot be used as the coded signal is unique the the matching ecu & immobiliser. If you are hearing the immobiliser click when you press the fob then this indicates the fob is successfully arming/disarming the immobiliser and if the wiring is correct it should allow the engine to start. If you have earthed the starter relay and the immobiliser is disarmed the engine should run, if it runs for 3 seconds then cuts out this means the ecu isn't getting the coded signal from the immobiliser. if it doesn't even run for 3 seconds then there is something else (not the immobiliser) causing the problem. Also bear in mind once disarmed the immobiliser will re-arm itself within 30 seconds so make sure you try and start it as soon as the immobiliser is disarmed. The sensor near the ignition key is not required, all it does is stop the immobiliser re-arming itself if the keys are in the ignition but once the engine is running it won't re-arm anyway.
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Old 13-11-2017, 01:42 PM   #69
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Interesting, thanks for that Gaz. I assume it’s a relay inside the immobiliser ecu that sends the start command to earth pulling the start relay over. Maybe it’s sticky. The immobiliser is definitely clicking, and the earth on the ecu is good but it won’t crank without me earthing the relay manually.

The engine itself isn’t in a position to fire at the minute anyway, I just wanted to see if it’d crank.

I think I’ll see what it does when I’ve got everything plumbed in properly with the relay manually earthed.
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Old 24-12-2017, 06:45 PM   #70
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I've been somewhat slacking with this build thread - progress on the other hand has been going well.

As before, pictures tell a thousand words:

Remote filter housing takeoff complete:
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Mocking up done, so everything torn apart for paint:

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Subframe assembly started

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Bulkhead painted ready for subframe fitting

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

New driveshafts arrived from GB Engineering (Berrisford), just trying to find some CV joints that'll work as they're a smaller diameter than the MG originals.Full race spec, so inner circle groove. Time will tell how good they are!

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Brake lines in, except master cylinder. (Clutch needs testing before master can go on for good)

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Engine ready for final install

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

IN!

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Ancillaries starting to go on

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Exhaust was todays job, just needs final tigging as gas ran out!

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr


Was hoping to spend the time between Christmas and NY getting final assembly done, but I'm working in Paris, so driving it on 1st Jan (year to the day of blowing up the A series gearbox) is looking very unlikely!
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Old 24-12-2017, 08:19 PM   #71
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Looks really good!

Also interested in how those driveshaft's from berrisford work out
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Old 25-12-2017, 02:34 AM   #72
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yes too good lol.
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Old 27-12-2017, 10:54 AM   #73
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Good work. Looks awesome.

I like the exhaust manifold and front pipe. Will be a very neat job once finished. Mine is the standard front pipe and sits about 30mm lower than the sump even though there is space above it. It's always annoyed me but not to the point of cutting the front pipe and altering it. It's on my nice to do but not essential list.

The clutch also looks stronger on the bulkhead than my own due to the bigger spreader plate. When I was building mine this took some sorting but seems quite a lot of others doing the same now so must of been a good idea. Not had any issues with this since fitting so all is good.

One area that is of my own concern and most on here will say it's fine is the alternator bracket. I like the idea of the rose joint adjuster, but to me it just doesn't look strong enough. The fact you only have one bolt holding it onto the engine block I consider another weak spot. These rotate at around 25,000rpm at full revs. They need more thinking about than just holding in place!

Progress is good and to have so much done in 12 months is great stuff. Everyone on here seems to break there own deadlines so you are not alone.
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Old 28-12-2017, 07:41 PM   #74
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Thanks AG. The alternator tensioner is still to be addressed. Once its running (nee next post!) and I'm happy with the lower bracket, it will most probably get replaced with a triangulated plate off two of the block threads.

Exhaust manifold and downpipes aren't as neat as I'd have liked as we had to make it a two piece affair so the manifold can be removed without having to take the engine out. I did't want to have a removable front bar, so this is the compromise.

Given that, I'm pleased with the outcome. Lambda sensor is just downstream of the original Y piece.

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Driveshafts built up
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Suspension taking shape
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr
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Old 28-12-2017, 07:51 PM   #75
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Filled engine and box with oil, re-connected battery and checked all electrical connections, but I still can't get it to run. (see original problem from post 59).

With the start relay earthed manually, I can make the engine crank.

The fuel pump does its two second prime when turning the ignition on, but it does not run continuously whilst cranking. (I believe it should turn on when it sees engine rotation from crank and/or cam sensor?)

I had the ECU's tested and they're matched to each other, and talking to each other and both fobs both working with the ecu's (at time of test!) but still the dilemma continues!

My suspicions are with engine ecu to alarm ecu wiring?
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