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Old 21-08-2017, 07:10 AM   #16
gazwad
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I have moved the tie bar mounts outward and downwards approx 20-25mm in both directions which has allowed me to also keep the standard oil filter housing ect, the tyres don't rub the tie bars. Also handling seems un-effected (after castor is corrected to standard).
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Old 21-08-2017, 11:28 AM   #17
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How is your bottom arm bush wear, or are you running rose joints?
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Old 21-08-2017, 12:05 PM   #18
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standard (genuine rover) rubber bushes all round, been on there 3 years and are still good.
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Old 21-08-2017, 12:25 PM   #19
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That's good to know, thanks.
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Old 21-08-2017, 12:54 PM   #20
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My alternator has arrived too - Lightweight 50A unit from Brise - only 100mm external diameter.

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr
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Old 15-10-2017, 06:48 PM   #21
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Plenty of progress since my last post, I've just been rubbish at updating the thread!

First bit of subframe
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Tacking together
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Working out suspension arm angles and mounts
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Basic frame roughly built
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

We've tried to keep original parts as much as possible, even it if means heavily cutting and welding them!
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Plenty of welding!
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

.......and rust repairs!
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Almost finished (Drivers side frame has since been modified for damper clearance)
by Andy Walker, on Flickr

This weekends job - engine steadies
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Another steady mount on the cross brace
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Whilst my brother works on the exhaust manifold
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

time for a beer.......

Last edited by ZA-J; 15-10-2017 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 15-10-2017, 06:58 PM   #22
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Forgot a few:

Bottom arm mounts
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Slight bulkhead mod for inlet plenum
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr
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Old 15-10-2017, 07:42 PM   #23
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Cracking on! Exhaust manifold is looking good and the engine mounts are great - I'm going to try something similar on the gearbox side on mine. Have a few questions you have probably got it covered, but I'll pipe up whilst you're still in fabrication stage. Why did you decide to use captive nuts on the bottom arm mounts? And have you got room to put the bolts in from the back when the frame is on the car? I think it's pretty tight and would be a shame to make bottom arm bush replacement a subframe out job. Also have you put the hubs on to check you have enough suspension travel. If you fit top & bottom arms and connect the hubs I think you may find the bottom arms hit the frame before the top arm hits the droop stops. You may be ok, but I spotted this problem on mine whilst mocking up.


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Old 15-10-2017, 07:44 PM   #24
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Scratch the bit about no room for bottom arm bolts, I was thinking of top arms


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Old 15-10-2017, 08:15 PM   #25
ZA-J
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Bottom arm bolts aren't captive nuts - its a nut welded on the end of the original pin. Nut is there to aid removal and installation and tightening it up.
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Old 15-10-2017, 08:17 PM   #26
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More up to date overall view of the subframe......drivers side frame rail has a shallower angle to allow damper removal and installation

Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr
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Old 15-10-2017, 08:19 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow View Post
Also have you put the hubs on to check you have enough suspension travel. If you fit top & bottom arms and connect the hubs I think you may find the bottom arms hit the frame before the top arm hits the droop stops
Good shout, Will have to take a closer look....thanks!
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Old 15-10-2017, 08:26 PM   #28
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And a little side project, turning the smashed up gearbox that started this project into a coffee table!

Starting point
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Gears out, case ready for machining
Update by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Brother machined down the casing flat.....off to the blasters next
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr
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Old 17-10-2017, 07:22 PM   #29
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We're playing clutches tonight. I've opted for cable clutch to gain most space in the engine bay for rad, but am struggling to work out how much throw the hook on the clutch pedal needs. I've read somewhere that the throw needs to be 60mm, but for that to be the case with the mini pedal, the hook needs to be about 95mm away from the pivot point.

Is 60mm optimum throw measurement?
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Old 17-10-2017, 09:29 PM   #30
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http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthrea...t=27565&page=4

About half way down shows how I did it.
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Last edited by AGoaty; 18-10-2017 at 01:57 AM.
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