Swift Elf G13B build

[speedy]

very nice...
and the dust will come off on the first blast

[bobjonah]

So... . We're still working at it.. We are just about ready to start peicing it all together.. Here are a few pics.

Here are a couple of the block, upside down with a fresh coat of paint...






Here is one of the Manifold, rusty ugly bits removed and painted. Don't mind the temporary insert where the O2 sensor used to be



A pic of the transmission all ready to go..



Close-up of the new drain plug outside and inside....





Various odds and ends... including the oil pan.



Spedo modications:







Coat of paint for the cam belt cover...



a couple of the spruced up Valve cover





And last but not least, the intake manifold..

[speedy]

nice one on the speedo... looks so simple...
the rest makes mine look really gruby... hahahahaha...

[bobjonah]

Well we have started to make some progress again. We finished the subframe a few weeks ago and I totally forgot about posting the pics.. Here they are
Better late than never I guess...







Next we have it in the car







Next post will have engine build pics

[bobjonah]

Well.. We started final assembly of the motor.. Everything going smooth so far. Still a few peices to assemble but not far from dropping it in the car

We are still aiming to have this thing done so we can take it for a rip before the first snow fall so the posts should be more frequent

[strudel]

Just came across your build and in the same country as well. Nice job so far. Don't know if this is worth commenting on but here I go. For the two piece frame it looks like it worked for you but it appears to me that sliding the tube on the inside may be somewhat awkward to orientate for the bolts. Would it not be a lot easier to put the sliding piece on the outside rather than inside? Easier to handle and better access I would think. Just my thoughts. Keep up the good work. Drive it to MMW in Penticton, BC next summer. JS

[bobjonah]

Thanks for your comments - much appreciated. we used a 4" long piece of solid material for the joint, so it had to be inside. To slide it into position, there is a series of 1/8" dimples ( see previous photos ) that can be accessed thru the bolt holes. Yes it was a bit difficult to move them as they are tight. We used clamps to align the tubes, and a pick to slide the joint along. A bit of light tapping with a hammer also helped. This makes a very strong joint and it's not like we will be removing it on a regular basis.

Was quite pleased with this engine - 20 years old and probably abused by several owners over the years and all it needed aside from a good cleaning up was a set of ist oversize pistons. and that was only because one cylinder as.008" over spec. We treated it to all new bearings etc. as well. All of the valves and seats were fantastic, so we just cleaned everything and re-lapped the seats. All new oil seals as well as the originals were totally worn and leaking everywhere - almost a bad as the old "A" series

[Marcus Nordblom]

You could eat from that engine! Really nice, and thanks for all the good pics of whats inside

[Carl S]

That looks fantastic! Great work on the engine rebuild

[strudel]

Thanks for the explanation of how the bar works. My only concern would be rust. Even though you may have lots of anti seize in there all it takes is a bit of fine grit to get in somehow and you will have a major issue to move the internal bar. If it were a tube on the outside you could at least hit it with a drift and use lubricant easily to get it moving again. The other option perhaps would be a U channel which would probably do the trick as well. Sorry, I tend to over think these things sometimes. I guess it's because I have had issues in the past with items that were very difficult to get apart again. JS

[bobjonah]

Hi Strudel:
Your concerns are noted and understood - been there a few times myself. Worst case scenario is that I have to cut it apart and re-do it after - not a big deal.

Bob Jonah

[bobjonah]

Its been a while since we've made any progress on the build but we've just reached a new milestone and thought we'd post a few more pics

First a quick diagram , the plan. We used a simple peice of woden dowel to make our measurements for final axel length then drew up what we needed.



Next we have the four axles cut to rough lengths ready for machining.

[DVO]

Looks very nice, especially the machined pin connection. I was thinking on more or less the same solution only with a loose inner pin. Think only the welding wont hold and the shaft needs an extra sleeve , but that is my opinion.

Dennis

[Purtsi]

Did I read correctly that the other end has cooled down and other heated up before mating together? If so, then I'm surprised if that joint won't last.

[bobjonah]

Yes, you are reading it corectly. The center pin is an interfearance fit - @ .0025". We heated the female section to @ 850 degree F and mated the two. When cooled,it would probably drive quite well without welding. The welding was TIG with stainless filler and was done on a rotating stand. After all was done, we measured the runout at less than .0015". The machining and welding was done at a local aircraft parts manufacturing plant so I am confidant that the weld is secure. The axels can only transmit as much torque as the tires will allow. I think that most axel failures are caused by runout and poor alignment putting stress into the welds.