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Old 15-04-2009, 08:28 AM   #16
Purtsi
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I'll face the same problem with my build but as I'll cut away the side panels from the engine bay I can lift the front side of the frame first in and the the back side and it should fit nicely then. And if not, I'll cut away metal below the bumper and lift the frame straight up =) Then I just need to fill the hole with a grill or sheet metal so it doesn't look too rough.
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Old 15-04-2009, 08:48 AM   #17
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Hi,

I think you want to make your front removable for easier access.
I know it is a Elf so front panel will be very expensive part to replace.
If yu cut just front of A-panel and drill out inner wing spot welds, you can use inner wings to bolt on as well as A-panel. For the front you will have subframe mounts, so you can use your original panel as it is.

Alternatively, you can mod front section of subframe. You only need recess for an exhust manifold/header. So, you can make recess just big enough and detachable. This means, you will need to modify your engine and gearbox mounts stiffner.

Cheers
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Old 15-04-2009, 09:53 AM   #18
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Pete's subframe went in and out easy enough with the engine in it.. before we cut the front off for other reasons..

we had the front of the subframe lower than the front panel but provided nbone of the subframe is any further forward than the mounting points where the front panel bolts to it, then it should fit no problem.. almost certainly have to remove the exhaust manifold though..

It went in almost exactly vertical, eg with the subframe blocked to its final position, we lowered the body down on to it...


there are plenty of pics of the subframe in the build diary, but none of us actually fitting it in the body

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8972
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Old 15-04-2009, 03:16 PM   #19
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Thanks for your fast response and excellent ideas - much appreciated. I am going to try a two piece frame. I will cut all four front / back connecting members and put a 4" long solid insert inside. This will be drilled, tapped and bolted together to provide a very solid connection. I hope that I have enough room to make it work. The next big question is - will I be able to install the engine thru the existing bonnet opening, or will I run into trouble here as well?
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Old 15-04-2009, 03:56 PM   #20
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This may sound absolutely stupid, tape some cardboard boxes together in that roughly fit the shape and profile of the engine and see if it fits.

(Yes, I should work on Blue Peter)

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Old 15-04-2009, 04:35 PM   #21
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BTW looking at the pics, in some, you didn't have the towers lined up with the recesses in the firewall/front bulkhead.. they need to slot into there to have any chance of getting it in in one.. ..

If you are lifting only the front of the car, you have to lean the subframe back slightly as you start to lower to compensate for the angle of the body to the floor.. then tilt it forward as you lower..

But it goes in pretty mush at the angle it ends up at... not leaning back like in your pics..

but it will go in... ! as I said as long as nothing projects past the front mounting holes..

If you are keeping the tin front.. I would definitely fit the engine to the subframe, then the subframe to the body...

a) it may not be possible to get the new engine in that way
b) less likely to damage the bodywork / paint
c) its a lot easier to assemble stuff etc while it is out of the body

The manifolds may need fitting afterward as they tend to project most

Chris
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Old 15-04-2009, 07:35 PM   #22
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Interesting build. I never considered the Swift motor. Those cars aren't too common around here. I'm not sure if the Geo Metro or one of the little Chevy Sprints has the same motor, but I've never seen one of them that looked like it could pull itself out of a pothole anyway. Once I found out that Mini Tec could do a D-series Honda in a standard nose Mini that was the only way I could see to go. I've put about a thousand miles on my Elf since the VTEC went in in February, and so far, it's been a real blast to drive. I'll be interested to see how yours progresses.


http://superfastminis.com/SMART_ELF.htm
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Old 16-04-2009, 09:57 AM   #23
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Thanks for all of the ideas and support. The biggest problem is that the front of the frame protrudes 2" in front of the front mounting points - nests tightly inside the front body curl. This gives great clearance for the exhaust, but the unexpected problem of fitting the frame in situ.

So, last night I cut the four back to front tubes, creating a two piece frame. These two pieces were easily installed. To join them, I have made 4" long solid square stock to slide inside the tubes. These will be drilled, tapped and bolted in place, so the frame can be removed if need be. It may be a bit tricky sliding them into place, but lets face it - if it was easy everybody would be doing it.

Re the cardboard boxes - not so stupid - sounds kind of fun actually. We just may try that as it could highlight where our problem areas are before we get into trouble and damage the paint etc..

Greg will send some photos this weekend - hopefully with the engine installed.

Bob Jonah
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Old 16-04-2009, 10:03 AM   #24
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To Red Riley - That car looks stunning - great job. There are very few Elves and Hornets in North America - probably fewer than six in all, so it is great to see them in such fine kit
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Old 19-04-2009, 01:42 PM   #25
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Engine is not in just yet but here are the pics of the subframe mounted in the car.













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Old 21-04-2009, 12:10 AM   #26
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Some pictures of the motor in the car..







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Old 21-04-2009, 12:40 AM   #27
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We finally got a few photos of the frame and engine in the Elf. The connectors for the two piece frame worked very well. the small holes in the connectors are just to slide the connector thru the tubes to the final position. We coated them with ceramic anti seize to lubricate and protect them from corrosion They slid into place quite nicely, and are bolted with four 1/4" stainless steel bolts threaded into the connectors - no future nproblems anticipated here.

We removed the manifolds and the front pully from the engine, and it slid in thru the bonnet opening easier than an "A" series. We had put plenty of protective cardboard on the wings etc. for protection, but did not need it. We put it in and out three times in less than 20 minutes. The cardboard box mock-up was a good idea, but was not necessary.

Still a few mods necessary before final placement is decided. I may cut the inner wing so the engine can move a bit further to the right hand side. this is needed for steering box clearance and to even up the drive shaft lengths.

After that is done I can do the final welding and bracing on the frame and start rebuilding and cleaning the engine. It will be nice to leave the welding and cutting grit behind, and enter the realm of grease and paint.

Question -- why do most use the Swift speedo ? Is there a critical component in it ? What are the chances of my stock speedo working with the Swift gears ? I am running Dunlop 175 x 13 x 50 tyres on 7" wide wheels.

The question re the speedo is probably the first of a series of electrical questions - this is the most intimidating aspect of the transplant for me. I have been dealing with points and mechanical advance curves all of my life - but never computer controled gismos, so please be patient when the questions start coming.

Bob Jonah
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:34 PM   #28
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hi there,

how is your build coming?
to answer one of your questions.
if your running a mk2 or up you will need the speedo.
there is a pickup in the speedo that goes to the ecu.
but you can make that work in a centre clock.
a few nights of toying around will make that happen
just dont stall... and keep us posted..
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:39 PM   #29
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Hi Speedy:
Thanks for the info re the speedo - I suspected that. I think that I can hide the GTI gauge cluster inside the left hand glove box, and just open the door when I need it, as I do not want to loose the original appearance. Then I will try to put it into the Smiths case next winter.

We have stalled a bit - very busy with life and NHL hockey playoffs right now. Have been making some progress however. Rebuilt gas tank with new filler cap and built in pump with return line -I put the mini chrome cap over the GTI vented cap and it fit very well - will send photos as it looks great, and original also.

We are still shooting for end of June or early July finish, but still lots to do - will keep you informed.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:43 PM   #30
bobjonah
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Default New Fan and rebuilt fuel tank



found a great 10" 800 CFM fan


Fits inside the standard shroud


Very low profile -

Fitted the GTI pump inside the mini tank - a bit of bending on the fuel level float arm and the smiths gauge works just fine

modified the GTI fuel cap and welded the GTI thread into the mini tank - no more leaking fuel.


and looks good too...Please pardon the dust
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