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Old 17-10-2012, 05:07 PM   #31
Phatwiji
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As Ardonfast suggested I decided to trim the pin some more and cut the nut in half so as to gain some more clearance.



Having given it some thought it's clear (I think) that the nut is never exposed to any real forces so making it thinner shouldn't give me any trouble.
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Old 18-10-2012, 07:36 AM   #32
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I have been giving some thought to the fitting of the front panel/flip front and in order to get things lined up correctly I will need a spacer between the subframe and front panel in place of the teardrop mount (which I wont be using.). The problem I have there is I dont think I have ever had a teardrop mount in my hands before, all I have to go on is the picture in the haynes, Don't suppose anyone can tell me the dimensions of a teardrop mount (specifically its thickness)?
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Old 20-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #33
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Right, having got hold of the steel I needed I have now tacked together the frame in a way I hope will work!









Next I will form the joins more securely and generally tidy things up then sort out the engine mounts issue.

I am fairly happy with how it has gone, I am not aware of any problems with it for the moment (fingers crossed.).
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Old 20-10-2012, 10:52 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Phatwiji View Post
I have been giving some thought to the fitting of the front panel/flip front and in order to get things lined up correctly I will need a spacer between the subframe and front panel in place of the teardrop mount (which I wont be using.). The problem I have there is I dont think I have ever had a teardrop mount in my hands before, all I have to go on is the picture in the haynes, Don't suppose anyone can tell me the dimensions of a teardrop mount (specifically its thickness)?
ok mate cant tell you the dimentions, but its about 1/2 inch thick,
nasty week things, you say your not useing one,,i feel mainly that your frame will locate by the tower nuts[2 big ones] next problem could be the 2 under the floor[i hope for the time being you can use the standerd ones then fix the frame in place[ if your engine and frame are in place the front location pionts will be easyer than what youve already had to acheve,
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Old 21-10-2012, 12:33 AM   #35
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i start this new becuse a edit is confuseing] i look back to your pictures and i see you have a front end you are trying to line up] [with front pannal work]
you to fit a bigger engine. its best to fit engine first then fit front]
i am not far]
so can call me]
i will come over]
01404 891074 is phone]
anytime ok]
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Old 21-10-2012, 09:15 AM   #36
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Hi,

I think tear drop is 12 to 13mm thick but don't use std ones.
I'm using billet ali mount from firm in a Mini mag.
They were about Ģ20/set.

Cheers
Atchi
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Old 21-10-2012, 06:18 PM   #37
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I will only need to make up some mock teardrop mounts to use as spacers as I fabricate the "flip front" I will be using. Ultimately the front end of the "flip front" will be held by hinges to the front edge of the subframe allowing the front to fold forward off of the engine.

I wont actually make the "flip front" until I have finished the subframe, I will be building the "flip front" myself around the modified frame in order to ensure it fits correctly. I will also need to fashion some hinges to go between the frame and "flip front" allowing it to open 90 degrees forward and then detach if needed, I think I left enough space to fit them? lol But anyway that's a problem for another day right now I am busy properly jointing the frame. I have little or no experience of this sort of welding so it is taking me a while, plus so that it doesn't fall apart I am edging on the side of over doing my joints. Better that than under cooking it and ending up with week welds and under engineered week joints, that's the theory anyway but I may be kidding myself. It is dam messy at the moment thanks to the flux core wire, some serious cleaning and tidying up will be in order before the end.

Last edited by Phatwiji; 21-10-2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 23-10-2012, 05:03 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
i start this new becuse a edit is confuseing] i look back to your pictures and i see you have a front end you are trying to line up] [with front pannal work]
you to fit a bigger engine. its best to fit engine first then fit front]
i am not far]
so can call me]
i will come over]
01404 891074 is phone]
anytime ok]
Thanks ardon I will do if/when I get stuck with it.
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Old 24-10-2012, 01:14 PM   #39
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looks like your geting on well,nice,
a fresh eye and exstra hands do help sometimes,
i have used flux migs, you can if in doubt take it somewere and they can go over it
if you feel the need,
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Old 27-10-2012, 09:44 AM   #40
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So I have got the frame to a point where I felt I needed to attach the frame to the car and then offer up the engine to check it will all fit. The frame fitted no worrys...



It was tight in the area around the steering rack/gearbox but I had been told that would be the case, but there was clearance.



then it was time to offer up the engine again, and two problems very quickly became clear...



firstly there was not really enough space for the injectors to fit, the bulkhead will need to have some modification of some sort I guess?

and 2nd it seems I has at some point wrongly made the assumption that the subframe in its jig was sitting at the same angle it would do when in the car, it didn't! In my jig the angle of the towers looked to be roughly vertical, but on the car the towers clearly lean back a good few degrees. So when mounted to the car the frame is leaning back in a way I wasn't banking on. I hope this wont be to much of a problem.




Last edited by Phatwiji; 27-10-2012 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 31-10-2012, 12:17 PM   #41
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So I have cut a section out of the bulkhead cross member, I looked about a bit and it seems that this is a fairly standard mod particularly when fitting turbo engines. Once I had cut the section out tho it very much seemed to me to leave the area in a much weaker state than I was comfortable with, so I felt it necessary (which it may not be!) to weld in something to strengthen it a bit again...



As things move on I may have to cut more off or weld more on to the bulkhead but I cant do that until I know what and where and why.
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:40 PM   #42
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I have managed to tack on the engine mounts to the subframe, I will finish the welds when I am confident they are correct. Here is a series of photos that will show what I did...













Having got hold of the right tools it was quite straight forward fitting that part of the mounts, I suspect that the brackets that then fit to the engine will be a little trickier (because of them being the last part to be made fitting between engine and frame means there is no margin for error!)

I have started on the gearbox mount bracket but it is not finished yet.

Last edited by Phatwiji; 05-11-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:39 PM   #43
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Good work!

you can "slot" the holes for the engine mounts in opposite directions, then itīs easy to fine tune the engine for perfect fit when in the car
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:46 PM   #44
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Good work!

you can "slot" the holes for the engine mounts in opposite directions, then itīs easy to fine tune the engine for perfect fit when in the car

Thanks I will bear that in mind if my current plan doesn't work
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:15 PM   #45
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yes good work. as marcus said it is nice to have some room to slide around,
and probably unfair to exspect the pins to fall right into the holes,
washers are amazing things, thinking about it you could even make a big hole,
then let a greasey washer float around were you need it,
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