Mizuki Clubman Turbo - Page 2

Purtsi · 24-11-2009, 04:33 PM

I was just going to say before taking the second look of the pics that make sure that the alternator bracket is heavy-duty one as the one I used was thinner and caused loads of unwanted rattling noise at 2800rpm which was then cured by changing the bracket to 10mm one.

Nice looking subframe btw

DVO · 26-11-2009, 08:01 PM

The bracket for the alternator is 8mm thick. Today I started finishing off the welding of the subframe and the enginemounts. Thing is that I am not sure the wheels will clear the subframe. I did some measuring on my other Mini, but I am still not 100% sure.

Also decided to add some extra piping on the bottom pipes, maybe I am overdoing it a bit, but I rather be safe than sorry. Especially the righthand side has a strange bend around the sump.

Dennis

DVO · 27-11-2009, 04:42 PM

Finished the subframe today. The only things I have to do is reinforce the part that is bolted to the floor, smoothing the welds a bit and grind a bit away around the oilfilter the get a bit more clearance. Follwing task is to start measuring on the driveshafts.

Dennis

speedy · 28-11-2009, 09:26 AM

thats a nice looking frame.
had it in the car yet? with engine in??

minuki · 28-11-2009, 12:49 PM

Smart looking frame.

Are those Metro mountings?

Scott

DVO · 28-11-2009, 04:45 PM

Did not have it in the car yet, that will be done in a few weeks, then the boss of the garage is going on holiday and I can use a bridge for two weeks

. In fact I hope a bit sooner but there is still a lot the prepare and fix anyway.

No Metro stuff on this subframe, the basis is a Mini subframe.

Dennis

speedy · 28-11-2009, 04:55 PM

nice.... a ramp for two weeks...

i think he ment the rear enginemount.

DVO · 28-11-2009, 06:27 PM

The rear enginemount originates from a '86 Golf 1.3. I found it going through a big pile of enginemounts at the breakers yard. I used it because it is a good size and the rubber is not as soft as the original Swift ones, which is a bit to big by the way.

Dennis

DVO · 03-12-2009, 04:54 PM

Today reworked the subframe a bit. I made the frame without the inner potjoints and yes...I got clearance problems. That is sorted out.

Also put the suspension on to measure the lenght of the driveshafts. The shortest lenghts were 347 mm and 324 mm (suspension in the lowest position). When taking a safety margin of 10 mm that would come down on 337 mm and 314 mm.

At first I will have them sleeved, later on I will probably go for 1-piece driveshafts.

Dennis

knoxy · 03-12-2009, 05:14 PM

hi, just looking at your subby. is there any of the original frame left at the front such as the tie bar mounts???
an how low have you taken the lower part of the frame???
just getting ideas for when i come to build mine.
mike

Purtsi · 03-12-2009, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DVO

At first I will have them sleeved, later on I will probably go for 1-piece driveshafts.

Dennis

I recommend going straight to the 1-piece ones. Then you don't have to worry about bending or braking them. And you'll save the money that goes to sleeving unless you're doing it yourself.

DVO · 03-12-2009, 07:00 PM

@ Knoxy: I integrated the tiebar fixings of the original frame in my frame (will take some pics tomorrow for you). For the front I just made a rough estimation. The frame is now just in front of the sump of the engine. I took the idea from AlexP and makes that I can fit a turbo later on.

@ Purtsi: I know that 1-piece is better, but I do not have to required 325 euro at the moment. First I want the car running.

Dennis

DVO · 04-12-2009, 04:30 PM

Hereby some pictures of the tiebar mounts left and right.

knoxy · 04-12-2009, 04:39 PM

cheers dennis, i can see how you have done it now.

how close is the subframe bar to the tie rod??? it looks pretty close.

mike

DVO · 04-12-2009, 08:15 PM

The lefthand side is not a problem, the righthand side is close because you have to build the bottom of the subframe around the sump. The arm is now in a lower position then usually possible because there are no rebound buffers in the subframe and in fact it is now touching. With those rubbers in there is enough clearance.

Dennis

24-11-2009, 04:33 PM	#16
Purtsi Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Finland Posts: 1,086 Subframe: Other CC: 1300 Make: Suzuki ECU: Megasquirt	I was just going to say before taking the second look of the pics that make sure that the alternator bracket is heavy-duty one as the one I used was thinner and caused loads of unwanted rattling noise at 2800rpm which was then cured by changing the bracket to 10mm one. Nice looking subframe btw __________________ I have a cunning plan...

28-11-2009, 09:26 AM	#19
speedy Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: marknesse netherlands Posts: 579 Subframe: Home Made Make: Suzuki ECU: standard,for now	thats a nice looking frame. had it in the car yet? with engine in?? __________________ new engine is done...

28-11-2009, 12:49 PM	#20
minuki Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Luncarty, Perthshire Posts: 108 Subframe: Other CC: 993 Make: Suzuki	Smart looking frame. Are those Metro mountings? Scott __________________ www.celticcustom.co.uk www.scottishmini.co.uk

28-11-2009, 04:55 PM	#22
speedy Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: marknesse netherlands Posts: 579 Subframe: Home Made Make: Suzuki ECU: standard,for now	nice.... a ramp for two weeks... i think he ment the rear enginemount. __________________ new engine is done...

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

26-11-2009, 08:01 PM	#17
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	The bracket for the alternator is 8mm thick. Today I started finishing off the welding of the subframe and the enginemounts. Thing is that I am not sure the wheels will clear the subframe. I did some measuring on my other Mini, but I am still not 100% sure. Also decided to add some extra piping on the bottom pipes, maybe I am overdoing it a bit, but I rather be safe than sorry. Especially the righthand side has a strange bend around the sump. Dennis

27-11-2009, 04:42 PM	#18
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	Finished the subframe today. The only things I have to do is reinforce the part that is bolted to the floor, smoothing the welds a bit and grind a bit away around the oilfilter the get a bit more clearance. Follwing task is to start measuring on the driveshafts. Dennis

28-11-2009, 04:45 PM	#21
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	Did not have it in the car yet, that will be done in a few weeks, then the boss of the garage is going on holiday and I can use a bridge for two weeks . In fact I hope a bit sooner but there is still a lot the prepare and fix anyway. No Metro stuff on this subframe, the basis is a Mini subframe. Dennis

28-11-2009, 06:27 PM	#23
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	The rear enginemount originates from a '86 Golf 1.3. I found it going through a big pile of enginemounts at the breakers yard. I used it because it is a good size and the rubber is not as soft as the original Swift ones, which is a bit to big by the way. Dennis

03-12-2009, 04:54 PM	#24
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	Today reworked the subframe a bit. I made the frame without the inner potjoints and yes...I got clearance problems. That is sorted out. Also put the suspension on to measure the lenght of the driveshafts. The shortest lenghts were 347 mm and 324 mm (suspension in the lowest position). When taking a safety margin of 10 mm that would come down on 337 mm and 314 mm. At first I will have them sleeved, later on I will probably go for 1-piece driveshafts. Dennis

03-12-2009, 05:14 PM	#25
knoxy Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: widnes Posts: 219 Subframe: Allspeed CC: 1600 Make: Vauxhall ECU: standard	hi, just looking at your subby. is there any of the original frame left at the front such as the tie bar mounts??? an how low have you taken the lower part of the frame??? just getting ideas for when i come to build mine. mike

03-12-2009, 07:00 PM	#27
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	@ Knoxy: I integrated the tiebar fixings of the original frame in my frame (will take some pics tomorrow for you). For the front I just made a rough estimation. The frame is now just in front of the sump of the engine. I took the idea from AlexP and makes that I can fit a turbo later on. @ Purtsi: I know that 1-piece is better, but I do not have to required 325 euro at the moment. First I want the car running. Dennis

04-12-2009, 04:30 PM	#28
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	Hereby some pictures of the tiebar mounts left and right.

04-12-2009, 04:39 PM	#29
knoxy Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: widnes Posts: 219 Subframe: Allspeed CC: 1600 Make: Vauxhall ECU: standard	cheers dennis, i can see how you have done it now. how close is the subframe bar to the tie rod??? it looks pretty close. mike

04-12-2009, 08:15 PM	#30
DVO Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands Posts: 521 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Chipped	The lefthand side is not a problem, the righthand side is close because you have to build the bottom of the subframe around the sump. The arm is now in a lower position then usually possible because there are no rebound buffers in the subframe and in fact it is now touching. With those rubbers in there is enough clearance. Dennis