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Old 28-04-2017, 12:31 PM   #556
edk83
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No problem mate on the tank, its on the way

I still think its got the be something that giving way at higher pressure / rpm
Either tiny hg leak and a slight crack in or round the tank somewhere, pressure test might help

setup the gopro looking at the tank, then go for a thrash without the bonnet on?
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Old 28-04-2017, 03:20 PM   #557
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As per Clive's advice here is my very simple test setup for cooling system pressure. I think it proves that the cap or tank is my problem.

It should hold 1 bar pressure. It won't even hold half that. If you do get to 1 bar you can hear the cap opening to release but the tank or seal is leaking a long time before that meaning the cap isn't doing it's job.

Here's the setup.



Sawn off tyre valve rammed inside a piece of coolant tube. Then remove the tank pipe and fit this to the tank. Blank off the original tube with a bolt.

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Old 28-04-2017, 08:50 PM   #558
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Yeah works well finding leaks, did the same on my 300zx when I had a boost leak. Made a blank for the intake with a car valve sealed in and pumped it up. Could hear the leak and found a split pipe.

Did you hear any hissing around the tank? Or pipes near it before the cap opens?
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Old 28-04-2017, 10:19 PM   #559
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Had the threads fail on the tank on my Rover 25, nice cheap fix.

Good content on showing how to test it though!
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Old 29-04-2017, 07:48 AM   #560
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In the video the cap didn't open. If I kept the pump going when it reached 1 bar the cap opened and the gentle hissing got a lot louder. It would not pump above that using this small pump indicating the cap is working.

Hoping this tank Ed is sending sorts this as it is looking likely not HGF after all.
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Old 29-04-2017, 07:55 AM   #561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
As per Clive's advice here is my very simple test setup for cooling system pressure. I think it proves that the cap or tank is my problem.

It should hold 1 bar pressure. It won't even hold half that. If you do get to 1 bar you can hear the cap opening to release but the tank or seal is leaking a long time before that meaning the cap isn't doing it's job.

Here's the setup.



Sawn off tyre valve rammed inside a piece of coolant tube. Then remove the tank pipe and fit this to the tank. Blank off the original tube with a bolt.

Simple but effective! nice idea
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Old 29-04-2017, 09:37 AM   #562
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How about wrapping the threads with a generous amount of PTFE tape to help seal the cap better and then run the test again?
Just thinking if it's the threads on the tank that have failed then maybe PTFE tape would work in a test rather than having to change the tank to find out either that it's something else or the used tank is no good either.


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Old 29-04-2017, 10:42 AM   #563
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Originally Posted by InstantCustard View Post
How about wrapping the threads with a generous amount of PTFE tape to help seal the cap better and then run the test again?
Just thinking if it's the threads on the tank that have failed then maybe PTFE tape would work in a test rather than having to change the tank to find out either that it's something else or the used tank is no good either.


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I wondered this myself.

The thing is the cap releases the pressure out of there so is it going to blow up like a balloon? That would be no good either.
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Old 29-04-2017, 12:31 PM   #564
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It'll only release when over a bar though, get up to just under a bar and have a listen for leaks, if no hissing then you know that it's definitely the header tank.


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Old 05-06-2017, 11:57 AM   #565
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Fitted an Audi expansion tank. Was tight but it's in!

Pressure tested it before fitting. This holds 1.5 bar. Pumped it up one afternoon. Came back to it to fit the next day and it still had the pressure!



Need a track day now...

Been running for a week or so without issues.
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Old 06-06-2017, 11:35 AM   #566
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Sounds good.

Might be an idea to check the flow rate. The main thing to check for is that the coolant flow through the bottle is not so high that air is being sucked down the exit port. If the bottle is clear you can probably see this by putting a torch behind the bottle. Try it at a 'sensible rpm (say 4000) cold and then at max rpm with the thermostat open.
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:20 PM   #567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Pountney View Post
Sounds good.

Might be an idea to check the flow rate. The main thing to check for is that the coolant flow through the bottle is not so high that air is being sucked down the exit port. If the bottle is clear you can probably see this by putting a torch behind the bottle. Try it at a 'sensible rpm (say 4000) cold and then at max rpm with the thermostat open.
I don't know about flow rate but it definatley is circulating the coolant.

The tank is an extension to the cooling circuit which should be completely full. Only air in the system is in the tank.

Keeping my eye on it but seems all good so far.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:48 AM   #568
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I have been keeping this updated via a chat tread rather than fill the build up with 5 pages of one issue.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37288

The short story is that I removed the head and had it stripped, skimmed, new gasket etc and it has not solved the problem. This is the original head when removed.







The head it'self is soft and as it's skimmed to it's limit that I think it's cheaper and easier to buy another complete engine which is know to be good.

Anyone reading this should also be able to see the pictures as I've cheated and used the cheat code posted here.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthrea...t=37414&page=5
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Old 17-07-2017, 03:02 PM   #569
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I have bought another engine at a price of 200. It's a 143bhp, VVC engine from a Rover 200 BRM. It is meant to have had it's head gasket changed, timing belts, water pump and all head seals done 6 months ago. The seller has convinced me it's a good quiet running engine that performs well having covered 60k miles. Personally I don't like buying engines that I cannot see or hear running. This time I have taken a risk as the seller was very convincing.

So out with the old.



In with the new.



There seem tonnes of room in the engine bay without both manifolds fitted! I have even managed to get the alternator on without much drama. This is one job that normally is a right pig.

Driveshafts and suspension all back together. Will just have to do an hour a day now until it's done as work gets in the way...
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Old 17-07-2017, 06:40 PM   #570
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that's a pretty good price for a low mileage engine, you could have easily paid that just for the head.
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