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Old 06-07-2018, 01:26 PM   #16
ardonfast
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That's possible , I'm away from the yellow can with dot4 synthetic wrote on it , lol I swair it is, I bet my left nut on it lol,
Let you know later,
My reason is that maybe O,P has more xed fluids up,
So just to start clean, and old fluids are rubbish!!!
Well I believe it, milky old poruse junk,
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:33 PM   #17
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Like this https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-742-cas...ake-fluid.aspx
Not saying it mends bad brakes but start at the very beginning!
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:53 PM   #18
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I agree that old fluid won't help but as Ben has recently built this and the fact he states it's been bled a few times, I think unlikely to be old fluid causing issues.

Also, DOT 4 fluid and DOT 5.1 are interchangeable. The DOT 5.1 is only needed for track use as has a higher boiling point. It will not do anything to improve the feel or use of brakes at normal road speeds.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:02 PM   #19
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DOT 5.1 is great for fast road use and more recently it is used as OE in cars as standard. Iíve cooked DOT 4 before on the road, scary when the pedal goes soft, checked the fluid when I got home and it looked very dirty, switched it for 5.1, never had a problem since.
Admittedly I was giving it some stick but I rather know I had the higher boiling point of 5.1 in the master cylinder and know Iím not going to have the same issue again.


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Old 06-07-2018, 05:58 PM   #20
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I don’t know about OP but mines on fresh 5.1
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Old 07-07-2018, 12:45 PM   #21
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Instant custard what rear cylinders should I be using???
I presume that they are standard mini as I haven't touched the rear brakes tbh
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Old 07-07-2018, 01:37 PM   #22
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Instant custard what rear cylinders should I be using???
I presume that they are standard mini as I haven't touched the rear brakes tbh
The rear cylinder bore size is not really important to get a firm brake pedal. If like me you find under hard braking the rears lock up, you may either need a smaller size or fit a bias valve.

You do need to check the cylinders actually move though. These are very common to seize even when used regularly.
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Old 07-07-2018, 03:03 PM   #23
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Henry has been off the road for 5yrs ish I was thinking of getting new rear brakes just so I can rule them out lol
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:44 PM   #24
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I've fitted 1/2" rear cylinders now and my rears don't lock even under hard braking with my adjustable bias valve wide open.
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:55 AM   #25
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Yeah - 1/2" rear cylinders, no bias valve for me, using MGF front brake setup
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:09 PM   #26
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The rear cylinders wonít be the problem your having, but if your locking up the rears easily when youíve got the fronts working as they should then 1/2Ē cylinders or a bias valve will help resolve that.
Have you managed to have another go at bleeding them through?


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Old 08-07-2018, 12:59 PM   #27
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Yes take a look at back for dribles,
Apart from that your putting the cart before the horse,
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:25 PM   #28
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Are you using the standard bias valve? I found this caused too much braking at the rear. I swapped it for a Willwood adjustable one.
As above, are you using the bias valve? I tried two on my old car, before junking it and going for an adjustable one.

Without changing anything else on the braking system, it went from squidgy, scary brakes to being able to flip the car on it's nose!
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:14 PM   #29
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Haven't had chance to bleed them again. Will try in the week. I don't have an adjustable bias valve. Nor would I know how to fit 1. It's not leaking fluid from anywhere. I'm going to renew the brakes but wanted to get this sorted first
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:08 PM   #30
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I'm with Andrew on bleeding the master cylinder. I had the same issue with a new master cylinder and the manufacturer suggested "Power Bleeding" it. Not sure how to do that but what I did was to disconnect the output pipe from the m/c, have someone press the brake pedal while holding a cloth over the outlet. Your helper holds the pedal on the floor so that you can stick your thumb over the outlet to seal it and prevent air back into the system, then releases the pedal. Repeat a couple of times till fluid is being ejected. Reconnect the joint then move to the next one and repeat. Worked for me. Apparently on a new cylinder with no fluid in it, the movement of the piston is not enough to suck in the amount of fluid needed to cover both outlets therefore you get air trapped and it shuttles about inside the m/c so no amount of bleeding at the calipers is going to shift it.
I've got Metro discs and calipers on the front. I have a remote servo on my setup which feeds the front brakes only. I removed the brake compensator valve and have a direct feed from the m/c to the rear drums and this gives me a decent balance [this was a Geoff Watson tip]
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