16v Mini Club Forums  

Go Back   16v Mini Club Forums > General Public Area > General 16v Mini Chat

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-11-2018, 10:08 AM   #1
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,333
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default Steel lift off front options

I'll very soon be getting to the stage where I am building up my removable steel front end (wings and front panel - bonnet to open normally but using Minispares quick release bonnet hinges.

I'm not sure the best way forward as the front will be pretty heavy and so some advice would be really helpful if any one can assist ?

The "minitec" up and over hinging is not really possible as the front end is being built to only be removed once in a while for major work (hence why the bonnet opening is staying standard) as I don't want to cut the wheel arches. They'll be removed before front can come off.

So far I have decided that a return lip on the inside of the A panels and the wings would probably be best to fix there and a couple of riv-nuts in the inner wing drip channel to bolt the wings down there but it's the front mounting that is causing me headaches.

From what I can see I have two options:-

1) Flip front hinges so the front can be tilted forward then slid sideways on the pivot bolt and removed and when refitting the front hinges re-engaged with the pivot bolts and the front end slid sideways back again in to position then flipped down. My concern here is there is a return on the back of the wings where it buts up against the scuttle panel and I'm concerned that this will bind on the scuttle. Has anyone done a steel front hinging flip front and can assist ?

2) weld captive nuts in to the crossmember of the subframe and bolt the front end to the crossmember using the standard front subframe mount holes with a plate behind for the bolt. My concern with this is lining up the front when refitting. I don't want to use studs sticking out of the front of the frame like some people do so that they can locate the front then slid the front end in to place. The only thing I could think of would be to make up some aligning studs that I could screw in to the captive nuts that could be fitted temporarily to align the front and then once the front is bolted in place at the A-panels and inner wing drip channels then the studs can be wound out and bolts then put in.

Any help, pics and advice would be great

Thanks
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build has begun
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 10:25 AM   #2
InstantCustard
Senior Member
 
InstantCustard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,956
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
Default


I have a couple of round pipe that line up with the pear drop mounts, donít have a pic of the front panel but Iíve cut away the rear of the mounting point on the front panel and welded in a sleeve that fits snug over those 2 bars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnard View Post
couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
InstantCustard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 10:26 AM   #3
InstantCustard
Senior Member
 
InstantCustard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,956
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
Default




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnard View Post
couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
InstantCustard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 11:59 AM   #4
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,333
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

Cheers Dan but its not what I'm really after as I'm trying to avoid having anything poking out of the front valance, hence why I'm looking at bolting in to the subframe using captive nuts.
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build has begun
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 12:25 PM   #5
InstantCustard
Senior Member
 
InstantCustard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,956
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
Default

They hang out quite far now but by the time I trim those back there wonít be anything hanging out the front panel, they look long now because Iíve left them until I weld together the steel front and get it fitting right and I need to weld in the sleeves to the rear of my front panel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnard View Post
couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
InstantCustard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 01:28 PM   #6
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,851
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

A totally removable steel front is the way ahead! Get your shapes correct at scuttle and wing joints but don't make fixings yet , mole grip it onto A panel return so your happy!
Support front with something ,so your happy ,
Get down to the 2 holes in valance and drill 2 holes , 1 in each , 12 mm will do, use stainless thread bar and attach to frame , however you want,
You will benift from the 2 studs sticking out ! You will find out later why, don't try to have a bolt (in) system as it's a total pain !!! Stud and nut is the best way, I no you don't want things sticking out , so shorten them later , last off all ,after you have made the back fixings,
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 04:57 PM   #7
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,333
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

I did come across this when Googling for ideas lol !!

Classic Mini mit Flip Front by Kay, on Flickr
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build has begun
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 05:12 PM   #8
ardonfast
Senior Member
 
ardonfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,851
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
Default

That's a very nice waist of time lol
__________________
"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk
ardonfast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-11-2018, 11:03 AM   #9
Kam
Senior Member
 
Kam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Hants
Posts: 4,774
Subframe: Allspeed
CC: 2000
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

Hey Mr C

Like Shaun said above use the front lower frame with two bolts poking out either end, makes it a stress free situation

I very crudely made up a fixing bracket, it was meant to be a taster/tester/mock up but ended up keeping it, is a pain to get it right on your own but I managed it so you should have no problems but a second pair of hands will help

My two bolts are visible from the front as they touch the bumper, I'm sure colour coding yours will help













To take the front off the arches need to come off (no biggie) then unbolt the back fixings (if you've got big hands this could be awkward) then pull away

Bonnet opens up as normal but its propped in place with either a small angle piece or half a snooker cue (Riley I believe) depending on where I'm taking it
__________________
My mini has got nothing to prove so nothing to lose
Kam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-11-2018, 02:01 PM   #10
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,333
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

Thank Kam unfortunately I've run in to some fitment issues with the front crossmember of my frame so I need to find a solution then I can come back to this issue

Looking at your pics you've had very similar clearance issues to me on the rad. I'm trying to run a stock Civic rad with an internal clutch slave cylinder but the top of the rad is stopping the bonnet closing and it looks like I'll need to do a similar mod as you to the top of the rad.

Your build also helped with modifying the headlamp bowl to help clear the rad - good old hot air gun
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build has begun
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-11-2018, 02:18 PM   #11
Kam
Senior Member
 
Kam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Hants
Posts: 4,774
Subframe: Allspeed
CC: 2000
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz View Post
Your build also helped with modifying the headlamp bowl to help clear the rad - good old hot air gun
Haha yeah that was freebies and strudel's idea of how to modify the bowl

With my rad I also had to chop out some of the X brace under the bonnet on that side for the extra few mm's of clearance, it was hard to brace afterwards as the bracing was undoing what I was trying to do so I done away with any bracing

There is a lot of flex on the bonnet (its like having a plastic bonnet) but its stayed on with silly speeds...

You might be able to brace it better if you needed to chop for more clearance

I haven't caught up with your build for a while, will check it out
__________________
My mini has got nothing to prove so nothing to lose
Kam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-11-2018, 03:39 PM   #12
Oz
Senior Member
 
Oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,333
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
Default



And I've since had to chop out more !

My plan is to add some sheet steel back in to "box" it up
__________________
New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build has begun
Oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.