16v Mini Club Forums  

Go Back   16v Mini Club Forums > Builds > Suzuki Builds

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 14-11-2009, 03:43 PM   #1
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default Mizuki Clubman Turbo

I think this is the time to open a new thread here, because last week I finally started my own Suzuki conversion. I have been reading along already for a while getting ideas how to tackle this.

The donor car will be a 1973 Clubman with polyester front. I built this car years ago to be fitted with a Metro Turbo engine. Unfortunately I blew up the engine after 200 kms. I was so fed up with that that I sold the car to a friend 3 years ago.

This year he said that he was going to sell the car and very quickly I decided to buy the car back to turn it into a street/circuitracer with A-series engine. But shortly after I that talked to somebody who was going to do a Suzuki conversion.

First he was going to do the subframe for me, but due to circumstances that never materialized. By then I already bought a wrecked Suzuki Swift Gti followed by another one a bit later.

The only solution was to start myself. I can do some welding but I am not an ace at it, the result maybe does not look that great always, but I think strong enough.

When the decision was made to give it a go I decided to go a step further and bought a complete turbo set-up. So the project will be converting a 1275 Mini Clubman into a Mizuki Clubman Turbo.

The donor car:









We started by welding a jig around a standard Mini subframe:



Then cutting off the not needed parts from the subframe and seamwelding a lot of joints for extra strenght.



Working on the fixings op the bottom arms:







How it looks now:



Next week i will continue working towards the front. Because of the turbo the front bar has to be low I think but will see what is the most useful. I have a clubman front so a bit more space to work with than under a roundnose.

Dennis
DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2009, 06:01 PM   #2
speedy
Senior Member
 
speedy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: marknesse netherlands
Posts: 579
Subframe: Home Made
Make: Suzuki
ECU: standard,for now
Default

thats a good start.
keep those progres pics coming...
the wheather is perfect to be in the shed
__________________
new engine is done...
speedy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2009, 06:05 PM   #3
Marcus Nordblom
Senior Member
 
Marcus Nordblom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Playboy mansion
Posts: 2,409
Subframe: Allspeed
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: 40mm mikuni rs
Send a message via MSN to Marcus Nordblom
Default

very nice, looking forward to the end result!
Marcus Nordblom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2009, 06:17 PM   #4
Welder
Member
 
Welder's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Best, Netherlands
Posts: 85
Subframe: Home Made
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Standard, but chipped
Default

Hit the road DVO!
__________________
Car status: Bought a new shell!
Welder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2009, 06:34 PM   #5
speedy
Senior Member
 
speedy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: marknesse netherlands
Posts: 579
Subframe: Home Made
Make: Suzuki
ECU: standard,for now
Default

not yet.... build a mini first...

jasper.... how far are you now...?
__________________
new engine is done...
speedy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-11-2009, 04:30 PM   #6
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

Today en yesterday made good progress on the subframe. The bottom part is now done. Have to finish welding and will redo the left part because I think it is stronger when I weld it against the front beam instead of on top of it.

Today I got the enginesupport rubbers so I can continue also with making the engine mounts. Will be a lot of fiddling around I guess from what I heard.

Dennis









DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2009, 05:22 PM   #7
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

Today not as much progress as I would like, because I made a mistake with the alignment of the bottom arms. That took a while, but now that is sorted out too. Changed the left hand bottom of the frame a bit and welded in the tower to front bars.

Dennis


Last edited by DVO; 18-11-2009 at 06:18 PM.
DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-11-2009, 05:24 PM   #8
speedy
Senior Member
 
speedy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: marknesse netherlands
Posts: 579
Subframe: Home Made
Make: Suzuki
ECU: standard,for now
Default

nice and tidy...
__________________
new engine is done...
speedy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2009, 02:22 PM   #9
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

Yesterday and today worked on the enginemounts. I think I got it more less right. I am very happy with the result especially the one at the back gave me a lot of problems with figuring out how to do that.

I wanted that as high as possible to prevent the tilting of the engine but also supported as much as possible because it gets a lot of strains on it.

When I got al in I think I forgot something. The engine is level, but it is not straight in the subframe. How is it possible to measure that, because there are not really fixed points on the back of the engine to measure from.

I was thinking of taking off the inlet because then I have a straight line on the cylinderhead and then measure along the back of the subframe. Somebody any other suggestions?

Dennis









DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2009, 04:43 PM   #10
Spiyda
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,915
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DVO View Post
Yesterday and today worked on the enginemounts. I think I got it more less right. I am very happy with the result especially the one at the back gave me a lot of problems with figuring out how to do that.

I wanted that as high as possible to prevent the tilting of the engine but also supported as much as possible because it gets a lot of strains on it.

When I got al in I think I forgot something. The engine is level, but it is not straight in the subframe. How is it possible to measure that, because there are not really fixed points on the back of the engine to measure from.

I was thinking of taking off the inlet because then I have a straight line on the cylinderhead and then measure along the back of the subframe. Somebody any other suggestions?

Dennis

what we did ....

temporarily fit a length of wood to the exhaust manifold mounting surface... so that it sticks out both sides of the engine .. lined up with the studs or ports (you can block it off a bit to clear the cam belt cover) then measure back to the bulkhead cross member or subfram tower mounts

you can use the same thing for getting it level too
__________________
Nothing is so simple it can't be made more complicated

www.spiyda.com www.screwbank.com
Spiyda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2009, 06:21 PM   #11
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

Thanks, that is a good suggestion, will try that next time. Getting the engine level is not really the problem but it being aligned well is important I think.

Dennis
DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2009, 06:27 PM   #12
Spiyda
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,915
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DVO View Post
Thanks, that is a good suggestion, will try that next time. Getting the engine level is not really the problem but it being aligned well is important I think.

Dennis
one thing , we mounted the engine so that the driveshafts werte equal lengths...if I were doing this again, I would have dissimilar lengths and mount the engine as far to the passenger side as possible (whichever side it is), it will make evening up the corner weights easier.
__________________
Nothing is so simple it can't be made more complicated

www.spiyda.com www.screwbank.com
Spiyda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-11-2009, 08:16 PM   #13
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

Already read your remark about that so I did not take into account the lengths of the driveshafts. First wanted to aim for equal length, but what I understand does not prevent torquesteer anyway so why bother and make it more difficult than necessary.

Dennis
DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-11-2009, 04:42 PM   #14
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

The engine is now in straight. I can now start on putting on the alternator (will do that the Minigarage way I think) and putting in the suspension to get some measurements on the driveshafts.

Dennis
DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24-11-2009, 04:26 PM   #15
DVO
Senior Member
 
DVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Noordwijkerhout, Netherlands
Posts: 520
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Chipped
Default

Today worked on the alternator. Used the way Minigarage is doing it and that works well. Also found in the garage a bracket from an alternator that I adjusted a bit and the result is perfect. Nicely in line and easy to tension.

Dennis





DVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 08:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.