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Old 02-11-2019, 06:10 PM   #1
splintercat
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Default k series cooling diagram

I have asked this before ...sorry butcan't find a diagram for the k series cooling system.
well I can if I google it but it is aalways on photobucket so just comes out blurred....
so can anyone post a diagram here so I can grab a clear copy....cheers
Again ooppps
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:31 PM   #2
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Do you mean a diagram of a zr cooling system or ones that we have on our own cars? It will help if you could tell us what radiator you are using and whether it is front, side or rear mounted?

On my car I have a ebay alloy mini rad (£50) with a 10" puller fan which pretty much covers all of the rad. My outlet from the haed has been cut down and it has a 180 deg hose on to that so it comes around by the gearbox cam pulleys, from there there is a take off that feeds the heater then there is another 180deg hose to bring it up to the top of the rad inlet with an alloy housing for the 2 temp senders. It exits the bottom of the rad then there is a take off that the bottom of the header tank goes to. The main pipe then connects to the steel pipe that goes over the top of the gearbox and around the back of the engine and connects to the inlet of the thermostat at the back of the water pump. Going back to the heater inlet pipe I have made up a H piece out of 2 T piece's to replicate what is on a zr heater pipes, I have fitted an MPI heater valve after the H piece on the heater pipe. The heater return pipe feeds into the H piece then down the back of the engine and connects to the small pipe that is between the thermostat and the water pump. The reason I have done it this way with the H piecewas to try and replicate the way it is on the zr cooling system, so that when the heater valve is closed there is still a flow of coolant around the engine and it's not getting very hot then the thermostat opens and lest a load of cold water in. The engine is up to running temps between 3-4 miles and I have drilled 4 3mm holes in the thermostat to allow some water through and to stop any air lock's at the back of the stat when filling the system.

On this one you can just see the where the header tank feeds into the bottom hose.

IMG_4107 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Here you can see the top hose coming from the head and doing a 180 then doubling back to the top of the rad.

IMG_3730 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

On this one you can see the heater vale I originally had on (black cab heater valve) but you can see that it's in a basic H arrangment

IMG_3605 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Here's a couple more of the heater valve.

Heater valve by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Heater pipes by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Here you can see the heater takeoff(which is the black piece) and the alloy fitting that has the 2 temp senders in 1 for the gauge and the other is for the ecu.

IMG_1859-1 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

IMG_1856 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Here you can see the thermostat and the steel pipe that goes around the back of the engine that connects to it, at the bottom of the picture is where the heater return connects to

DSC01481 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

There is a couple more small 8mm pipes, on the cambelt side of the inlet manifold there is a small pipe that has a jiggle valve in it, most of us have knocked this out (take the manifold off first as it could get stuck in the water pump) On mine this pipe comes over the top of the inlet manifold and connects to the overflow pipe from the top of the rad and then connects to the header tank, we also changed the rad cap to a plan one without the spring.

Sorry it's so long winded and well done if you read all of it! This set up works on my car, I haven't had any over heating problems and the fan cuts in & out controlled by the ecu.
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:48 AM   #3
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This is great Keith. Iíll be referring to this!


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Old 03-11-2019, 03:14 PM   #4
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Wow.......I really wanted a schetchmatic for a k series cooling system but since posting I have found it BUT you're set up really is impressive mate...bravo and I certainly will be nicking a few ideas off of you if that's ok.
thanks again.
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:02 PM   #5
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Sorry have my non computer hands on today and keep using the wrong buttons.
Anyway nice set up, I have lost my bleed screw from the metal rail return hose from the thermostat, thought it was just a generic screw but still dribbling out, and don't wanna tighten it too much etc etc are these readily availble?
My set up is like yours, ha ha in that it a front mounted alloy radiator but with no rad cap, tried to buy an in line on to help but seriously have no room so just gonna have to live with it. I like your idea with the ally fitting for the senders, I got my coolant hose elbow cut and modified by Gaz off of this forum, bless him, that gave me a take off point on the block and I moved the part with the senders over however I have problems as this part of the fitting has the pipe that goes to the heater matrix on it and it is causing me problems as it is situated too near the top hose inlet so I may steal your idea with the Y piece fitting for the heater matrix and relocate the senders elsewhere, are these Y pieces easily got?
Thanks again for the pics and explaination, and apologies for my reply being a bit of a bumble but I don't have many friends....
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Old 04-11-2019, 10:04 AM   #6
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Found a Y piece on flea bay;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGF-MGTF-...oAAOSw5cNYfPr2

The little bleed screw I think should have a copper washer on it, so when you tighten it down it will seal on the washer with out too much effort.

The outlet on the head that's on my engine has been cut right down with just enough so I can get the hose to stay on, hence the blue ally fitting that has the temp senders in. I had to do a couple of mods to it, there is only 1 sender hole in the fitting when you get it. The hole was opend out and re-tapped to the size of the sender and a 2nd hole tapped for the other sender, then lastly I tapped it for a small screw so that the fitting could be earthed.
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Old 04-11-2019, 03:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splintercat View Post
Sorry have my non computer hands on today and keep using the wrong buttons.
Anyway nice set up, I have lost my bleed screw from the metal rail return hose from the thermostat, thought it was just a generic screw but still dribbling out, and don't wanna tighten it too much etc etc are these readily availble?
My set up is like yours, ha ha in that it a front mounted alloy radiator but with no rad cap, tried to buy an in line on to help but seriously have no room so just gonna have to live with it. I like your idea with the ally fitting for the senders, I got my coolant hose elbow cut and modified by Gaz off of this forum, bless him, that gave me a take off point on the block and I moved the part with the senders over however I have problems as this part of the fitting has the pipe that goes to the heater matrix on it and it is causing me problems as it is situated too near the top hose inlet so I may steal your idea with the Y piece fitting for the heater matrix and relocate the senders elsewhere, are these Y pieces easily got?
Thanks again for the pics and explaination, and apologies for my reply being a bit of a bumble but I don't have many friends....
First off, I am certain I will have a bleed screw. It should have a small O ring under it too but often these have been lost and surprisingly still seal without.

Sometimes a picture helps with explanations. Here's how to post pictures.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37066

Does your radiator have a small outlet which is piped to the top of the expansion tank? If it does, it will self bleed once you get it running but route the pipe above the height of the engine otherwise it won't work properly. Just at first start up, leave off the cap and top it up as the level drops.

I have the rubber pipe here from a ZR which is from the front outlet to the matrix. Just let me know if that helps.
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Last edited by AGoaty; 04-11-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 05-11-2019, 06:33 PM   #8
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Default k series cooling

Quote:
Originally Posted by gadget555 View Post
Found a Y piece on flea bay;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGF-MGTF-...oAAOSw5cNYfPr2

The little bleed screw I think should have a copper washer on it, so when you tighten it down it will seal on the washer with out too much effort.

The outlet on the head that's on my engine has been cut right down with just enough so I can get the hose to stay on, hence the blue ally fitting that has the temp senders in. I had to do a couple of mods to it, there is only 1 sender hole in the fitting when you get it. The hole was opend out and re-tapped to the size of the sender and a 2nd hole tapped for the other sender, then lastly I tapped it for a small screw so that the fitting could be earthed.
Nice one had a closer look at it last actually and whilst talking to Gazward worked out how to do similar, the only problem I found was the actual length of the senders.....the black one with two wires is easy as it is nice and short/stubby but i am trying to work out if the blue one, which is much longer, will actually fit? i have a 32mm unit to play around with and can't go any bigger than that and i imagine that i want them fully screwed in so that they sit in the water flow, i'll let you know when i try em.
thanks for hud on the y piece i think it is just what i need and a reasonable price especiall with all the rest of the hose so thanks again, when i reconnected my split coolant elbow i too almost forgot that in it's original state the senders are earthed through the block so i had overcome that problem with a separate earth for them but thanks for the reminder...
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Old 05-11-2019, 06:41 PM   #9
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Default k series cooling

Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
First off, I am certain I will have a bleed screw. It should have a small O ring under it too but often these have been lost and surprisingly still seal without.

Sometimes a picture helps with explanations. Here's how to post pictures.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37066

Does your radiator have a small outlet which is piped to the top of the expansion tank? If it does, it will self bleed once you get it running but route the pipe above the height of the engine otherwise it won't work properly. Just at first start up, leave off the cap and top it up as the level drops.

I have the rubber pipe here from a ZR which is from the front outlet to the matrix. Just let me know if that helps.

i do have a small pipe from the top of my rad going to the expansion tank already, however if i try this new set up similar to gadgets' then i think i will introduce an additional bleed valve somewhere inthe top hose just to see if it will help, thanks for the offer of the y piece from a zr and it would certainly help if i can't get the one from flea bay.
ill send you my address in a personal pm if you can send it, just let me know what I owe you etc etc.
many thanks.
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:09 PM   #10
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You won't need an additional bleed on the 8mm pipe that comes from the inlet manifold and T's into the outlet from the top of the rad then to the header tank, it will be fine as it is.
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:46 AM   #11
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Yep I see what you are saying but don't want t put it in the 8mm pipe that goes from the rad to the expansion tank, just thought that I would put an additional bleed valve somewhere in the top hose near the rad as i haven't got a rad cap, and I am struggling to get air lock out of the system. if I don't put one there I may put on the hose that goes from the top hose directly to the input of the heater matrix.
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:54 PM   #12
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If your suffering with an airlock, most of the time itís right behind the thermostat, it can be difficult to get the stat to open because of the airlock, drilling some small holes in the edge of the thermostat to allow water to pass can help.


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Old 07-11-2019, 08:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splintercat View Post
Yep I see what you are saying but don't want t put it in the 8mm pipe that goes from the rad to the expansion tank, just thought that I would put an additional bleed valve somewhere in the top hose near the rad as i haven't got a rad cap, and I am struggling to get air lock out of the system. if I don't put one there I may put on the hose that goes from the top hose directly to the input of the heater matrix.
You don't need it.

Provided the 8mm tube is above the height if the engine it will sort it'self out. Most modern cars are like this.
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Old 15-11-2019, 09:26 AM   #14
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Default k series cooling

Quote:
Originally Posted by gadget555 View Post
You won't need an additional bleed on the 8mm pipe that comes from the inlet manifold and T's into the outlet from the top of the rad then to the header tank, it will be fine as it is.
well i finally completed my rejigging of the coolant hoses, it follows basically the same layout as yours now, so thanks for the pictures. it really does look a much neater job and gives me much better clearance for the hoses. I used your idea about converting an in-line alloy adapter and Gaz from here helped me modify it for the sensors, we did have a wee problem with the length of the sensors so just drilled an extra hole and re-tapped it for the black short sensor for the ecu. and instead of putting in the blue temp gauge sensor, I put in a standard mini smiths temp gauge sensor which fits in the original 1/8th NPT hole, cos that's the gauge that I have and using the rover sensor made mine read a little hot due to the compatability, hopefully it should work out fine when I fill it up with coolant and bleed it the weekend.
I'd post pictures here but don't use photobucket so I am stuffed.
Thanks again.......
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Old 15-11-2019, 01:17 PM   #15
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Your not stuffed at all. You can look up yourself an image hosting site, but he's a suggestion...

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37066
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