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Old 21-03-2014, 03:00 PM   #16
cedric998
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... and the plugs to close the holes which are not necessary ??
which material ??

rgds
chris
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Old 21-03-2014, 03:04 PM   #17
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... and the plugs to close the holes which are not necessary ??
which material ??

rgds
chris
err not sure ,

sure he got some threaded rod . and loctite , and maybe small quantity of liquid metal was used
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Old 24-03-2014, 06:54 AM   #18
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crank seal / spacer made , another fixing will be added.
My dad is taking this type of approach as its allot simpler for him to do in his shed. you will see same approach with the cam seals etc , ( allot simpler to machine small round objects in his lathe , then try and machine a perfect circle in a sheet of ali.



he also has machined down threaded part on mini cam , machined up a spacer to fit tightly over (to space honda pulley out ) and then drilled and threaded mini cam internally ready to bolt. ( locking pins/slots still need to be sorted )

just waiting on cambelt to control position of tensioner
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:45 PM   #19
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Dad got himself a m10 x 1.0 Die , and knocked up two bolts for the cam adapters



Mini Cam housing and spacer done



top plate in position , cam seal housing still to be made.

Trigger wheel from triggerwheels.com mounted

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Old 04-04-2014, 12:42 PM   #20
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Honda/rover 216 cambelt arrived ,



mounting tensioner next
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:15 PM   #21
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dad found some time this afternoon to mock up a tensioner back plate using the old mini timing back plate , he will be re-making and moving tensioner up a little.

you can also see how close water pump is



lower pulley shot



water pump clearance

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Old 04-04-2014, 07:23 PM   #22
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Hmm, probably not a big problem, but you could go to a davies craig electric pump and then just cut the existing pump housing down and bring on your alloy welding Matt. You would gain a fair few HP as well going this route as the mech pump saps lots of power as the revs get higher and you know this engine is going to rev. Just a thought. PS my thermostat housing is still great since you had an epic battle welding it.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:28 PM   #23
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Hmm, probably not a big problem, but you could go to a davies craig electric pump and then just cut the existing pump housing down and bring on your alloy welding Matt. You would gain a fair few HP as well going this route as the mech pump saps lots of power as the revs get higher and you know this engine is going to rev. Just a thought. PS my thermostat housing is still great since you had an epic battle welding it.

Cheers. We are trying to keep things simple at cheap at the moment.

Good to hear about housing.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #24
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Cheers. We are trying to keep things simple at cheap at the moment.

Good to hear about housing.
Yeah I'm all for cheapness. Just if you really find it a a problem plus you get some free bhp Just take the grinder to the housing and "dress it" a bit.


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Old 05-04-2014, 11:12 AM   #25
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For the water pipe off the back of the pump, check out info on the datsun 100y (i think). It has a hose that would fix to the pump stub, angles between the belt and the block and then angles down to the lower rad connection. I remember seeing the info on the old efi minis forum before it went offline...
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:16 AM   #26
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Cheers. Will check it out. Going up to see my dad in a few weeks. See progress on flesh
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:17 AM   #27
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Think not 100y... possibly 100a or 120y... cant quite remember its been so long...
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:18 AM   #28
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120y ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Datsun-120...item2a1e20d6f0
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:26 AM   #29
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Looks similar... i found this one:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/370813241611
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:45 PM   #30
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If you ever consider a davis craig pump (ewp80) I have a unused one still in box. Which I could do a good deal on.

Ben
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