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Old 15-01-2015, 08:39 AM   #31
axelkloehn
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Hi Kees

how stiff are your engine mounts? I had to shorten my intake for the standard Suzuki injection cause it was rattling against the firewall during driving...I would take engine movement into consideration too.
Anyway, good work so far!! I am pretty much interested in that carb solution, it gives you much more space in the engine room! I already have MK1 Ignition in my workshop and plan to do a carb conversion too!

Regards, Axel
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Old 15-01-2015, 09:38 PM   #32
kees2501
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i think it will be no problem when the engine starts. mounts are stiff and the there's i think a cm space between the intake and the chassis.

other problem is the injection holes.. what is a good way to close those holes?
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Old 16-01-2015, 07:56 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kees2501 View Post
i think it will be no problem when the engine starts. mounts are stiff and the there's i think a cm space between the intake and the chassis.

other problem is the injection holes.. what is a good way to close those holes?
...some people just left the injectors in and closed the fuel pipes...
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Old 19-01-2015, 08:18 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axelkloehn View Post
...some people just left the injectors in and closed the fuel pipes...

that's a good option i think..
i was thinking of making vacuum plugs in those holes. i need a vacuum plug for the carb setup.
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Old 19-01-2015, 06:44 PM   #35
axelkloehn
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Also good, modify the Injectors and use their fuel pipes as 4 in 1 vacuum supply
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Old 24-04-2016, 01:45 PM   #36
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update:







flipfront and brakes.
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:03 AM   #37
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update:

rear subframe rebuild,

new brakes, new bearings in the wishbones, high/low set, new brake lines.



question:

what is a good way to make a stop for the wishbones? with the high/low set the go to low when i lift the car. joint can come out.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:31 PM   #38
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Lowered spec shock absorbers have a shorter length extended - to stop the hi-los dropping out - and shorter in compression - so they don't bottom out.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:32 PM   #39
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Old 12-06-2016, 03:06 PM   #40
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I use some special made flexible steel wires which prevent the arm sagging to much. They limit the amount of travel of the shockabsorber.

Dennis
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Old 14-06-2016, 06:24 PM   #41
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Dennis is right, I did something similar with nylon webbing as a short term fix. Stops the cones falling out on full droop but doesn't avoid the shock bottoming out - but that's down to your ride height and wheel combo. Mine was low on 10s, but with a bigger wheel you'll probably have tyre hitting wheel arch before it's an issue
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:48 PM   #42
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thanks for te help. think im gonna do the same as Yellow shows on his pic.


i did some other work first to get it ready for a test drive and the first drive:



still work on the carbs. rpm is not going back down
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:54 PM   #43
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thanks for te help. think im gonna do the same as Yellow shows on his pic.


i did some other work first to get it ready for a test drive and the first drive:

watch?v=E_keu-oI7OA



still work on the carbs. rpm is not going back down
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